We all need 2000 sqft workshops, with nice flat concrete floors, 12 foot ceilings, 208v three phase, great lighting, and big double bay doors.
I'll bulldoze my house, and rebuild with the shop being the entire first floor.We all need 2000 sqft workshops, with nice flat concrete floors, 12 foot ceilings, 208v three phase, great lighting, and big double bay doors.
Yeah, sorta half-assed mockups to get me to the point of "what do I need to do now?"asa, are those 3D printed mockups?
I've heard of people doing lost PLA casting with good success, might be worth a try. Probably a lot easier to cast something and clean it up than to machine one from stock.
Could be trapped stress due to uneven cooling in the mold. Anneal it before you machine it - I'm told a self cleaning oven does the job beautifully.Yeah, sorta half-assed mockups to get me to the point of "what do I need to do now?"
I can see three or four more iterations of them as I go at a minimum
I've done lost PLA casting for some old outboard parts. I posted a thread when I did it, but didn't get many views I think. It works pretty well, need a decent mold media and a decent positive, but out of that you're good.
The few aluminum things I have cast have not reacted well when machining. Not sure if it was a crappy alloy or if it might not have aged yet.
Been a while since I've picked up and put down heavy things for a past time, so it is hard to judge the actual weight. But 80-100lbs?that shit cant have been light
One example, when I pressed the brass rod in this chunk pressed out.Could be trapped stress due to uneven cooling in the mold. Anneal it before you machine it - I'm told a self cleaning oven does the job beautifully.
Yeah, this was an open faced mold as that was the easiest way, and we were more concerned with what the wood would do when metal was cast onto it. When we finally finish the project it will be sprued and molded properlyTransmission case metal is great, it's a proper casting alloy and it's consistent. If you melted down a bunch of old heatsinks and pop cans, that'd be a different story.
Yeah, do your next mold fully enclosed. Open top mold will cool unevenly, plus the top will collect impurities - better to have them collect in a sprue.
You could also cut a small slot (the size of the bolt shaft) from the venturi hole that would allow you to slide the bolt in from the side, if height is an issue.Definite possibility.
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Still planning an O-ring seal on the bottom of the carb spacer?I'd be concerned with sealing against air leaks, but maybe.
You could extend the O-ring to outside the bolts in that case.Yup. With a secondary coating of RTV to ensure I hit everything