Ontopic History of an Old Car
- Thread starter Mr. Argumentor
- Start date
Cost/time tradeoff. You'll want to bake "real" nylon anyway, we print nylon stuff in the ultimaker at work and if the spool's out for a couple of days, print quality goes to hell.
Microwave might be kind of small - craigs a small ceramic or glass kiln, they run on 120v and you can often find one for $300-400. Glass kiln will go to 1700f, which will do aluminum and most brass or bronze. Ceramic kiln goes to 2300f. Shame about the wax filament not being user friendly, that would make it a lot easier.
Makin fancy dildos to put my fancy dildos in.
I just need it to be water tight, but it isn't just sitting on top. Its thin enough I had to be real careful to not burn through it. Tig would have been much better than mig but it's down and I suck at tig anyways.
I didn't really run a continuous bead, I pulsed the trigger on and off keeping the bead yellow-white (on for a second, off for half a second?) at a minimum and proceeded along the length like that. Despite that I still burned through on average 2.5 times per cylinder. The advantage of that is there is real good penetration on the inside.
I didn't really run a continuous bead, I pulsed the trigger on and off keeping the bead yellow-white (on for a second, off for half a second?) at a minimum and proceeded along the length like that. Despite that I still burned through on average 2.5 times per cylinder. The advantage of that is there is real good penetration on the inside.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
So, what's the advantage to building dedicated casting fixtures for the dildos instead of just a bucket of sand?
ahhh, thats why it looks weird.
I bet if you turn your wire feed rate way way down, and use the thinnest wire possible, you could get the same result without the excess metal on the bead.
less wire = less heat to melt = less burn through.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Ugh, rethreading a welder just to run thinner wire is the worst.
Especially when you let the tension off the wire that's in there, and it springs all over everything.
Back to this ^^^ now that I have time, a good part of it is the supplies I have available.
I'm assuming that you're not talking about just sticking the part upside down in a bucket and packing sand around it. That itself wouldn't work for several reasons, it wouldn't burn out cleanly, it wouldn't fill in the gaps completely, and you'd possibly get sand mixing with the part into some nasty sand/aluminum amalgamation due to the inability to pack it all properly in a bucket. You'd have to make an actual greensand mold with the cope and drag method (I specify that as the top and bottom of these are not symmetric, so it would require a top and bottom)
So, investment casting is what I'm doing, it gets you a good surface finish, and great dimensional accuracy, it destroys the positive, no flash (although I'll have to clean off the main sprue/gate,) and it usually allows for really intricate parts without a core mold.
Sand molds are about the opposite of all that, and in addition you can still get a little bit of sprue washout which will again net you the sand/aluminum nastiness.
@Jehannum
I'm assuming that you're not talking about just sticking the part upside down in a bucket and packing sand around it. That itself wouldn't work for several reasons, it wouldn't burn out cleanly, it wouldn't fill in the gaps completely, and you'd possibly get sand mixing with the part into some nasty sand/aluminum amalgamation due to the inability to pack it all properly in a bucket. You'd have to make an actual greensand mold with the cope and drag method (I specify that as the top and bottom of these are not symmetric, so it would require a top and bottom)
So, investment casting is what I'm doing, it gets you a good surface finish, and great dimensional accuracy, it destroys the positive, no flash (although I'll have to clean off the main sprue/gate,) and it usually allows for really intricate parts without a core mold.
Sand molds are about the opposite of all that, and in addition you can still get a little bit of sprue washout which will again net you the sand/aluminum nastiness.
@Jehannum
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So, I spoke with a couple of the technical folks that deal with the metal filament. They gave me a few pointers on what it would take to get my designs to work. Generally a generative design is successful with these filaments, although they said that eliminating as much empty space as possible helps, if you cannot do that and cannot print a solid piece then using a "fatter" infill style is a good thing.
So, we have this for the rear. Still printing the front.
So, we have this for the rear. Still printing the front.
