Wall update

JPatrick said:
I just paid a contractor to install my sprinkler system.
Way too much digging involved for my liking:fly:
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How big is your yard? If I may ask what did the system cost?

Our yard is on the smaller side and I don't mind yard work... But if the price is right I'll pay someone to do it.
 
April40 said:
How big is your yard? If I may ask what did the system cost?

Our yard is on the smaller side and I don't mind yard work... But if the price is right I'll pay someone to do it.
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It was under 2k installed.
I didnt have any of the electronics installed tho, so I have to manually go turn it on and off, but I dont mind.
Your back yard is pretty small so you could probably get off a little cheaper.
 
fly said:
Oh its dusty up there, but you can't see it - so its like it didn't happen!



Good idea!



FWIW, the opening is already the correct (width) dimension for a standard door, so I think its really just removing the sheetrock. I would need someone to mud, tape, and texture it though. You think its above a first time DIY'er? What do you think something like that would cost?
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you still need to bring the header down to the proper height if you want the height to be the same as the other doors.

tape and bed you can figure out yourself. just remember to use thin coats and sand lots. if there's texture you'll probably want a professional to be able to match it properly.

the framing part is easy. if the width is already right (35" clear now probably means a 36" clear rough opening once the sheetrock is removed) you only need to put in a header at the correct height and one stud from about the center of the door up to where the current header is (so the drywall only has to span about 18" unsupported). The header will probably need to be 2 36" long pieces of 2x4 (since any load is carried by the original header above).

no idea about cost, but if you have it done by a pro it will save you a lot of trouble and many trips to home depot.
 
April40 said:
How big is your yard? If I may ask what did the system cost?

Our yard is on the smaller side and I don't mind yard work... But if the price is right I'll pay someone to do it.
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a contractor will probably have a machine for pulling the pipe through the ground without digging a trench too, which will save some hassle and let the lawn bounce back faster.
 
fly said:
FWIW, the opening is already the correct (width) dimension for a standard door, so I think its really just removing the sheetrock. I would need someone to mud, tape, and texture it though. You think its above a first time DIY'er? What do you think something like that would cost?
Click to expand...

Yes. Hire a contractor.

You should put some track lights or sconces up above that wall once it's all walled in.
 
April40 said:
I only water at dusk and do not have a sprinkler system. If I had direction on installing one myself, I would try. :)

I have researched online and have not found a system I am confident about. :hs:
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It's grass yo, if it wont grow either a) it's a soil problem or b) something is eating all your grass seeds. B is pretty easy to take care of, just put down straw or old grass clippings over the newly seeded stuff. A goes from digging up the really dead spots to just getting it aerated (which you can do yourself with a graden fork).

Idk my yard is SAND, so shit doesnt want to grow in it normally. I used to live somewhere it was clay, but compaction and chemical burning are what normally cause problems. Shit wont grow in it if it feels like walking on cement, nothing will grow in it if you constantly walk on it either (also causes it to have the texture of cement). If you fucked up with artificial fertilizers you also mightve burned it. In all these cases the best solution is to: redress the soil.

Grass grown best in loose dirt high in nitrogen, that means fork it and lift just a bit so you can feel it start to break apart. Then rake vigorously with a metal rake, enough to get some dirt going on top. Then put down some peat moss mixed with composted cow shit, available everywhere? Just enough to get a lil dirt on top. Sprinkle some seed, I normally walk back and forth over it once to push some seeds in, water gently, do not soak it, it makes it compact.

Same thing in totally dead spots cept use a shovel to turn over the soil like you were making a garden.

THEN DO NOT WALK ON IT. DO NOT LOOK AT IT. AND DO NOT APPLY FERTILIZER. You will have grass n a few weeks, just forget it's there, grass IS A WEED, it will grow. You also wont have to mow it for a few months, it'll look wierd but mowing it too soon will just kill it.

Dont use herbicides, hand weeding is ftw and do not weed clover, it is fucking > than grass, it gives back to the soil and it's green anyway. Dont soak your lawn. Dont mow too close, actually the longer the grass is the less weeds youll get. Dont get suckered into buying expensive ass grass seed either, normal contractor grade bermuda/bluegrass mixes are fine. Chemical fertilizer is meh, you shouldnt need it unless you have pro sports played on your lawn, composted manure sprinkled in spots that dont look up to snuff usually does it.

If it's a water problem ignore this.
 
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i have some extra potting soil at the house. can i spread that on dead spots to make them grow?

also, how do i convince my landlord to mow it more often rather than super super short?
 
FlamingGlory said:
It's grass yo, if it wont grow either a) it's a soil problem or b) something is eating all your grass seeds. B is pretty easy to take care of, just put down straw or old grass clippings over the newly seeded stuff. A goes from digging up the really dead spots to just getting it aerated (which you can do yourself with a graden fork).

Idk my yard is SAND, so shit doesnt want to grow in it normally. I used to live somewhere it was clay, but compaction and chemical burning are what normally cause problems. Shit wont grow in it if it feels like walking on cement, nothing will grow in it if you constantly walk on it either (also causes it to have the texture of cement). If you fucked up with artificial fertilizers you also mightve burned it. In all these cases the best solution is to: redress the soil.

Grass grown best in loose dirt high in nitrogen, that means fork it and lift just a bit so you can feel it start to break apart. Then rake vigorously with a metal rake, enough to get some dirt going on top. Then put down some peat moss mixed with composted cow shit, available everywhere? Just enough to get a lil dirt on top. Sprinkle some seed, I normally walk back and forth over it once to push some seeds in, water gently, do not soak it, it makes it compact.

Same thing in totally dead spots cept use a shovel to turn over the soil like you were making a garden.

THEN DO NOT WALK ON IT. DO NOT LOOK AT IT. AND DO NOT APPLY FERTILIZER. You will have grass n a few weeks, just forget it's there, grass IS A WEED, it will grow. You also wont have to mow it for a few months, it'll look wierd but mowing it too soon will just kill it.

Dont use herbicides, hand weeding is ftw and do not weed clover, it is fucking > than grass, it gives back to the soil and it's green anyway. Dont soak your lawn. Dont mow too close, actually the longer the grass is the less weeds youll get. Dont get suckered into buying expensive ass grass seed either, normal contractor grade bermuda/bluegrass mixes are fine. Chemical fertilizer is meh, you shouldnt need it unless you have pro sports played on your lawn, composted manure sprinkled in spots that dont look up to snuff usually does it.

If it's a water problem ignore this.
Click to expand...

It's not so much a water problem we live in the rainiest state, I bet. Plus I water it twice a week... I would do it more, but I forget or may over water it... who knows.

Anyways, that was good information. The soil is more than likely too compact. The house was built ten years ago so I doubt anything has been done with the lawn since then.

Is it a good time of year to seed?

I would rather not use fertilizer anymore since it is bad to the environment. Scott's Lawn told me there are bugs (?!) that are taking over the lawn. Some sort of beetle if I remember correctly.
 
April40 said:
It's not so much a water problem we live in the rainiest state, I bet. Plus I water it twice a week... I would do it more, but I forget or may over water it... who knows.

Anyways, that was good information. The soil is more than likely too compact. The house was built ten years ago so I doubt anything has been done with the lawn since then.

Is it a good time of year to seed?

I would rather not use fertilizer anymore since it is bad to the environment. Scott's Lawn told me there are bugs (?!) that are taking over the lawn. Some sort of beetle if I remember correctly.
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It's just about going into the dormant period I think, I've never actually lived far enough south that I could plant stuff later than october. But most grass has a 15-ish week period in the winter months when it'll be alive but brown. Spring is usually the best time to seed, and you can reseed a bit in august september, I planted some about 2 weeks ago but it took forever to sprout cause it's getting cold already. I also have never really needed to water, northeast isnt known for being dry or hot but usually if it's dry the grass just doesnt sprout until you get a good downpour.

The university of florida extension apparently has a lawn handbook about florida type stuff http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_BOOK_Florida_Lawn_Handbook_3rd_ed

Sometimes you just got to suck it up and use pesticide, it usually doesnt kill grass though, herbicide and poor fertilization methods are what normally kill stuff. There are some areas around here where grass just -wont- grow, Ive taken to planting lavender, it spreads like crazy and it looks ok, doesnt take much traffic of course.
 
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FlamingGlory said:
It's just about going into the dormant period I think, I've never actually lived far enough south that I could plant stuff later than october. But most grass has a 15-ish week period in the winter months when it'll be alive but brown. Spring is usually the best time to seed, and you can reseed a bit in august september, I planted some about 2 weeks ago but it took forever to sprout cause it's getting cold already. I also have never really needed to water, northeast isnt known for being dry or hot but usually if it's dry the grass just doesnt sprout until you get a good downpour.

The university of florida extension apparently has a lawn handbook about florida type stuff http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_BOOK_Florida_Lawn_Handbook_3rd_ed

Sometimes you just got to suck it up and use pesticide, it usually doesnt kill grass though, herbicide and poor fertilization methods are what normally kill stuff. There are some areas around here where grass just -wont- grow, Ive taken to planting lavender, it spreads like crazy and it looks ok, doesnt take much traffic of course.
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The grass grows slowly starting right about... now. Yet my neighbors can keep this lush, thick, green lawn while we get notices in the mail about how much I suck at keeping the lawn up.

My plan so far is to wait until possibly end of March to start seeding; until then I'm going for the emerald green spray can. :( jk

I may wait until the spring to also treat the soil to some forking and raking.

Would it be a better idea to just resod the whole mess?
 
april, get it arriated (sp?) now, seed it now, then do both again in the spring.

the arriation is the important part in my experience... do it in the early spring and late fall and you're golden.
 
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