WTF So I just dick'd my butt

ill occasionally dye something. Ive got thousands of boardfeet of milled red oak cause its cheap and hard, but its red oak and looks like shit unless you do something to it. I have a finishing recipe thatll approximate it towards the color of cherry, and get rid of all the open pore streakiness.

That one actually doesnt even have dye though, its BLO + 2 coats of garnet shellac
 
Jehannum said:
huh, I thought minwax only did urethanes.

Staining wood is not my thing, though. If I want wood to be a certain color, I just buy the fuckin' wood that's that color.
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This
I usually just give it (whatever Ive made) a coat of tung oil then a clear acrylic coat polished out with #### steel wool
 
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Domon said:
ill occasionally dye something. Ive got thousands of boardfeet of milled red oak cause its cheap and hard, but its red oak and looks like shit unless you do something to it. I have a finishing recipe thatll approximate it towards the color of cherry, and get rid of all the open pore streakiness.

That one actually doesnt even have dye though, its BLO + 2 coats of garnet shellac
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If you just embrace your inner 1970s sense, red oak is fine.

WEAR THE PLAID LEISURE SUIT.
 
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Domon said:
thats not urethane. Its a fucked up version of pigment based stain mixed with topcoat and is streaky and muddy and the worst of both worlds.
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If you're not finishing it with some wipe on poly (thin like water) then you a. did it wrong and b. didn't follow their directions. It can work out very nice. I do two coats of the urethane , sanding with 220 before the first, 600 in between and at end, before the wipe on. They suggest you topcoat it or use a wipe on if you want satin. Streaky sounds like insufficient wood prep, insufficient mixing as one goes along. Must sand between coats or you get uneven buuild-up. And must(fine, I prefer) use natural bristle. idk, having no problems. Over 2000ft of trim here, no streakiness. or muddiness.

It's a pine french door you retards - I have to do something to it. Actually, I bought two. one is from the kitchen to the dining room. That one got sealed and painted. The BIgger one is from foyer to living roomn - identical door across the foyer going into den/office. Pine with pecan stain is a classic color combination.
 
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Jehannum said:
huh, I thought minwax only did urethanes.

Staining wood is not my thing, though. If I want wood to be a certain color, I just buy the fuckin' wood that's that color.
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That's not always possible. I don't like staining, dyeing or painting wood. But hey, I'm not buying a $2k interior door for this house. The front door with sidelights? - yeah, got a real nice one coming, mid-January they claim. Coulda bought a nice used car for what that cost.
 
wetwillie said:
If you're not finishing it with some wipe on poly (thin like water) then you a. did it wrong and b. didn't follow their directions. It can work out very nice. I do two coats of the urethane , sanding with 220 before the first, 600 in between and at end, before the wipe on. They suggest you topcoat it or use a wipe on if you want satin. Streaky sounds like insufficient wood prep, insufficient mixing as one goes along. Must sand between coats or you get uneven buuild-up. And must(fine, I prefer) use natural bristle. idk, having no problems. Over 2000ft of trim here, no streakiness. or muddiness.

It's a pine french door you retards - I have to do something to it. Actually, I bought two. one is from the kitchen to the dining room. That one got sealed and painted. The BIgger one is from foyer to living roomn - identical door across the foyer going into den/office. Pine with pecan stain is a classic color combination.
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Nice wood is expensive. Stain is cheap, comes in 100 shades, and looks great when done well. Poly is durable and you can work the clearcoats to a showcar finish if you want. What's not to like?
 
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HipHugHer said:
Nice wood is expensive. Stain is cheap, comes in 100 shades, and looks great when done well. Poly is durable and you can work the clearcoats to a showcar finish if you want. What's not to like?
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Obviously, I agree. :) Used on freshly sanded and wiped(spirits) wood, the polyshades soaks in, sand it back to even tone, then recoat or clear coat. I tried not doing the robot so I wouldn't get splotches. :)

I think this southern pine is "nice wood" - even the 24" doors are heavy AF. Although, all that tempered glass adds up too.
 
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wetwillie said:
Obviously, I agree. :) Used on freshly sanded and wiped(spirits) wood, the polyshades soaks in, sand it back to even tone, then recoat or clear coat. I tried not doing the robot so I wouldn't get splotches. :)

I think this southern pine is "nice wood" - even the 24" doors are heavy AF. Although, all that tempered glass adds up too.
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I keep thinking I want to redo one of my basses (an alder body carvin kit) in a doublestep but I just find the whole process to be tedious. Need more patience grasshopper. Have to first decide which way to go with it 'cause I sure don't want to do it twice.
 
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