Valve1138
I like the AB in the GB
This reminds me that the microwave as tripped the breaker 2 or 3 times since we moved in.
Could just be a bad breaker. They can go bad and be prone to tripping for no reason.
This reminds me that the microwave as tripped the breaker 2 or 3 times since we moved in.
That's it. Window unit sounds right. I'll be sure to get that short/breaker looked at.When was it built?
Plugs that look like these
View attachment 10189View attachment 10190
are 220s for big ass window air conditioners. They wired that in some houses before central a/c was as commonplace as it is now.
110/120s that seemingly don't do anything could be from some previous rewiring, maybe diy off the books.
Same with the ones that control seemingly unrelated stuff in different parts of the house. Or that could be an electrician connecting stuff wherever there's room to make the load calc's work out right.
My bigger concern above any of that is the one that won't reset. Either the breaker itself is bad (cheap, easy to replace), or that breaker is doing its job because you have a short somewhere. Fix that shit first.
trust but verify. I always non-contact anything before working. It just nice to not have any part of the panel live while working on itThat sounds nice. Albeit, 100a is kinda low for a whole house unless really tiny. *No 14kv inside your meter box. Two 120 hots and the ground supplied by the utility. Granted, it will supply a lot of amperage before deciding you are done. Do you trust that outside breaker more than the main breaker on the box or the same?
A double-pole breaker isn't merging anything. It's strictly a space saver doing the same job as two separate without the retardation of having to flip two breakers for one circuit. Which could lead to a deadly accident.
I'm pretty sure my service is only 100 or 125A, for a 2500 sq. ft. suburban house.That sounds nice. Albeit, 100a is kinda low for a whole house unless really tiny. *No 14kv inside your meter box. Two 120 hots and the ground supplied by the utility. Granted, it will supply a lot of amperage before deciding you are done. Do you trust that outside breaker more than the main breaker on the box or the same?
A double-pole breaker isn't merging anything. It's strictly a space saver doing the same job as two separate without the retardation of having to flip two breakers for one circuit. Which could lead to a deadly accident.
Microwave should be on its own 20A circuit.This reminds me that the microwave as tripped the breaker 2 or 3 times since we moved in.
Do you also LOTO so that your cunt muppets don't come by and flip the breakers while you're nipple-deep in exposed circuits?trust but verify. I always non-contact anything before working. It just nice to not have any part of the panel live while working on it
If that breaker is for one of those weird looking a/c plugs, and you don't need them, you can just pull that breaker from the panel and leave it out. Cap off the wire ends and fold them out of the way.That's it. Window unit sounds right. I'll be sure to get that short/breaker looked at.
Do you also LOTO so that your cunt muppets don't come by and flip the breakers while you're nipple-deep in exposed circuits?
What if I move the microwave?Microwave should be on its own 20A circuit.
Just like the furnace, aircon, and water heater (if electric) should all have dedicated circuits, per NEC.
It's probably sharing. If it's a built-in it could be pushing the limits of a 15 amp circuit.This reminds me that the microwave as tripped the breaker 2 or 3 times since we moved in.
Seems like that would be a bit on the low size. I'm just shy of 2900 sq. and have 250 amp service. Granted, it's two story with basement so lots of circuits in a box with probably 40 slots. I hogged 5 circuits just for my kilns. Those pricks are pulling 135a when all are on high. My pole barn has 150a - I have a full sized surface grinder I run off a 240->360 triac box out there.I'm pretty sure my service is only 100 or 125A, for a 2500 sq. ft. suburban house.
Plug-in microwave = you're fineWhat if I move the microwave?
Had the toaster and microwave going as I saw this post lol.Just don't run the microwave and the coffeemaker and the toaster at the same time, you'll be fine.
Seems like that would be a bit on the low size. I'm just shy of 2900 sq. and have 250 amp service. Granted, it's two story with basement so lots of circuits in a box with probably 40 slots. I hogged 5 circuits just for my kilns. Those pricks are pulling 135a when all are on high. My pole barn has 150a - I have a full sized surface grinder I run off a 240->360 triac box out there.
Cheap fuckers didn't want to buy a bigger box. I think my folks house had a 4 fuse, 60 amp box. . . 530ish sq. ft.I've lived in houses here built anywhere from 1880s to 1980s, 2br/1ba to 4ba/3ba w/2 car garage converted into studio apt. 100amp service common in all. Don't think I've lived anywhere with bigger than 125.
There is that. MIcrowave, toaster and vac are probably in a dead heat for highest momentary power draw. Strike the vacuum, modern hippies are using brooms and Swifters. OR chickens.Modern electronics are all efficient, low draw. With proper load calc you can run an incredible amount of stuff on 100 amps.
Cheap fuckers didn't want to buy a bigger box. I think my folks house had a 4 fuse, 60 amp box. . . 530ish sq. ft.
There is that. MIcrowave, toaster and vac are probably in a dead heat for highest momentary power draw. Strike the vacuum, modern hippies are using brooms and Swifters. OR chickens.
They have!! Some are compressor-less, others have a compressor. The compressor ones supposedly cut electricity use 75%. Both types act as furnace for winter. They're not particularly expensive - and there are tax incentives to getting one.Our electric grid stress comes from air conditioning in the summer. Doesn't dip below 80f at night and can hit 100+ in the afternoons. They need to figure out efficient natural gas powered a/c, like in RV's but better.