Ontopic String's and Adi's gear & pedal thread
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nukes
I Eat Buttholes Raw
nukes
I Eat Buttholes Raw
Careful. Do a search on. TB. Those things go dead as fast as 1st generation Rumble amps.
nukes
I Eat Buttholes Raw
Do a search for the inuke. It's a Bugera power amp. There's a used one at Guitar center Manchester right now. 1000 watts, $99.
Nice! Does that run 2ohms each channel or 4ohms each channel? I can't find any ohm ratings on the back.
nukes
I Eat Buttholes Raw
I'll check tomorrow. I'm blazing high on birthday pie right now.
nukes
I Eat Buttholes Raw
500 watts stereo into 2 ohms, 1000 watts bridged into 4 ohms. 7 lbs. Keep in mind this is a power amp you'll need a preamp.
No idea about reliability, etc. I can say I played those "acoustics" (in name rights only) amps as part of a rehearsal with supplied gear deal several times. Wasn't a bad amp at all. EQ in good spots. Power is there. Notch filter makes it easy to dial out an overall boom problem if there is one.
Initially I thought it was garbage but after switching out a few things turns out it's the absolute shitbox of an 810 cab they put that name on that's garbage.
The amp held some promise but if a bunch of people who aren't jackwagons and actually know what they're doing say it ain't reliable then it probably ain't. Gotta be cheap for some reason.
I'd wouldn't consider a move from a guitar center Acoustic brand to a Beringer a step up though. More like a lateral move at best.
Find an old used QSC leadsled power amp, deal with the weight, and know you got balls whenever you need them, and never worry if something bad will happen ever again.
Crown or Peavey get you there too.
Initially I thought it was garbage but after switching out a few things turns out it's the absolute shitbox of an 810 cab they put that name on that's garbage.
The amp held some promise but if a bunch of people who aren't jackwagons and actually know what they're doing say it ain't reliable then it probably ain't. Gotta be cheap for some reason.
I'd wouldn't consider a move from a guitar center Acoustic brand to a Beringer a step up though. More like a lateral move at best.
Find an old used QSC leadsled power amp, deal with the weight, and know you got balls whenever you need them, and never worry if something bad will happen ever again.
Crown or Peavey get you there too.
I have a preamp out on my portaflex and a line out on my sansamp. I think either of those will work.
If I'm under standing the ohms on the inuke nu1000, it can run 2 ohms on each channel so I could run four 4ohm cabs with it?
I've considered going with a power amp for years for the flexibility. What has held me back is the weight and lack of simplicity. Now that I have two 4ohm cabs I've never had a better reason to go with a power amp. Of course the simplicity of plugging in a head that already has a preamp is tempting.
I've pretty much decided that having the highest quality gear isn't that important to me. My cabs handle my B string well put they are only about one step up from the cheapest shit you could buy. I'm pretty sure 98% of people don't care how shitty my gear is as long as it does it's job.
I don't know where I was going with this post or how it relates to yours but I enjoyed your post.
The eq settings on the acoustic b600h do look attractive af.
Power amps are about as simple as it gets on the face of it. Sound in, sound out just louder, nothing else changed. And having two 4ohm cabs is a damn good reason to get one.
Under the hood, it takes some doing to accomplish that, at the rated power level, reliably, for tens of thousands of hours of play time, especially under less than ideal conditions (your amp competing for power with the beer fridge down at Joe's Smoke-n-Drink).
One important spec to look for:. "input sensitivity".
That's how strong a signal going in the front to get the rated power going out the back.
Some might require up to 1.4 volts incoming (which any mixing board can produce but some dedicated bass preamps can not) to get their power out the ass end.
Take your super awesome 2000 watt Poweramp and starve it with only .7 volts coming in (that's 1/2) as might be sent from a weak preamp and it'll sound anemic and lifeless and quiet and castrated.
You'd think people who make preamps would make sure they could drive any Poweramp on the market, or alternatively, people who make power amps would make sure they could be fed by any preamp on the market but that's not always so.
Make sure your preamps clean output is equal or greater than your power amps required input.
I don't know if this will help things or just make them more confusing but....
Any (most) amplifier is really a voltage multiplier. That's what it does, increases voltage.
Everything we do and buy is in watts. They're easy to understand and the numbers are bigger so it makes for more impressive advertising.
In reality, if your amp (fed the required input, again in volts) makes 40 volts, that's what it does, make 40 volts. How many watts that is depends on the resistance (impedance) of the load (speaker). In simple terms anyway.
40 volts into an 8ohm load is 200 watts. Into a 4ohm load it's 400 watts. Into a 2 ohm load it's 800 watts.
Into a 16ohm load it's 100 watts.
The amp is making the same 40 volts the whole time.
Voltage squared / resistance = watts.
When you set limiters, like say for a subwoofer system to protect the speakers, you use voltage not watts.
The exception to this is tube amps, which are current amplifiers instead of voltage amplifiers and are magnetically coupled to the load. That's a whole 'nother church of voodoo.
Any (most) amplifier is really a voltage multiplier. That's what it does, increases voltage.
Everything we do and buy is in watts. They're easy to understand and the numbers are bigger so it makes for more impressive advertising.
In reality, if your amp (fed the required input, again in volts) makes 40 volts, that's what it does, make 40 volts. How many watts that is depends on the resistance (impedance) of the load (speaker). In simple terms anyway.
40 volts into an 8ohm load is 200 watts. Into a 4ohm load it's 400 watts. Into a 2 ohm load it's 800 watts.
Into a 16ohm load it's 100 watts.
The amp is making the same 40 volts the whole time.
Voltage squared / resistance = watts.
When you set limiters, like say for a subwoofer system to protect the speakers, you use voltage not watts.
The exception to this is tube amps, which are current amplifiers instead of voltage amplifiers and are magnetically coupled to the load. That's a whole 'nother church of voodoo.
The sansamp I have has a line out but I cant find anything about what the voltage of that line out is. I've always thought line out is an industry standard. They sure don't like to make it easy to find that information. Can I check that with a voltage/ohm reader?
Aren't some of the watts lost in other parts of the amp aswell, so an amp may use 100 watts altogether but not all of that is used to multiply voltage?
In short....
Look at the power amps input number and your preamps output number.
Preamp output equal or greater than Poweramp input = OK.
Preamp output less than Poweramp input = not OK.
Why anyone would make preamps that didn't have the industry standard power to drive a Poweramp like a mixing board can is beyond me but it happens. Especially when taking a preamp out from an "all in one" bass head (pre and power in one box).
Look at the power amps input number and your preamps output number.
Preamp output equal or greater than Poweramp input = OK.
Preamp output less than Poweramp input = not OK.
Why anyone would make preamps that didn't have the industry standard power to drive a Poweramp like a mixing board can is beyond me but it happens. Especially when taking a preamp out from an "all in one" bass head (pre and power in one box).