Ontopic New Car Thread!

wetwille said:
Hey, when is this group gonna analyse Asa's jumping engine? Maybe it's like a Mexican jumping bean, has a bug in it.
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I had a Ford like his with the same straight six. Put it in forward gears everything was normal. Put it in reverse and the whole engine twisted over to one side.

Broken motor mount on one side.

Front end collision, even seemingly minor = always check all the mounts. Doesn't take much to shear off or at least start a crack/weak spot in what is essentially a hunk of rubber.
 
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HipHugHer said:
I had a Ford like his with the same straight six. Put it in forward gears everything was normal. Put it in reverse and the whole engine twisted over to one side.

Broken motor mount on one side.

Front end collision, even seemingly minor = always check all the mounts. Doesn't take much to shear off or at least start a crack/weak spot in what is essentially a hunk of rubber.
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Any Ford with a straight 6 basically the same. Turd engines but they could take a beating. I had one when I was 17 that had 205k on it - burned a quart every 100 miles. Had to park on hills and pop the clutch to start. No starter on earth could spin fast enough to start with that low of compression.:fly:
 
Darth Handsome said:
I changed a clutch in a camaro once in my grandparents garage with jacks & wood blocks. It sucked, & I kept running over my long cascading hair with the creeper
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Plus you got stinky 'ol gear oil all over your jean jacket - the one with the Helix, Streetheart, Loverboy and other patches sewn onto it. And it was never the same afterwards, but you kept on wearing it anyway. Being cool is hard, man.
 
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Rockauto order made. Rear main oil seal, Sachs clutch kit, transmission input shaft seal, CV joint seals.

Gotta pick up a 12 point socket to get the CV joints out of the hubs, and either buy or cobble together a transmission jack to drop it out of the car, but it looks like I've got every other tool I need to do this job.
 
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Today I drove to a mustang guy's 'yard just north of Zephyrhills to pick up some parts he said he had. Both parts were for V8 cars, not six cylinder cars. Burnt up 2 hours doing that.
Bleh
 
gee said:
Rockauto order made. Rear main oil seal, Sachs clutch kit, transmission input shaft seal, CV joint seals.

Gotta pick up a 12 point socket to get the CV joints out of the hubs, and either buy or cobble together a transmission jack to drop it out of the car, but it looks like I've got every other tool I need to do this job.
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I've never owned a real transmission jack, just rig up a regular floor jack with a board and ratchet strap or 2 but anyways however you do it when you're rigging up your jack keep in mind the center of balance ain't in the middle. Got the differential where the axles plug in hanging off one side and it'll want to flop over that direction when you pull it loose.

Also on the way back together you'll want to be able to rotate it some. A little one way for the splines to go in the a little the other way for the pins/bolt holes. Can get close turning the shaft before hand but hard to get everything perfect. Usually need a little wiggle.

Anyways, if it's all lined up on all axis it'll go all the way on just manipulating it with your hands. If you feel the urge to use the tightening of bolts to bring the two together don't do it. Something isn't lined up.
 
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HipHugHer said:
I've never owned a real transmission jack, just rig up a regular floor jack with a board and ratchet strap or 2 but anyways however you do it when you're rigging up your jack keep in mind the center of balance ain't in the middle. Got the differential where the axles plug in hanging off one side and it'll want to flop over that direction when you pull it loose.

Also on the way back together you'll want to be able to rotate it some. A little one way for the splines to go in the a little the other way for the pins/bolt holes. Can get close turning the shaft before hand but hard to get everything perfect. Usually need a little wiggle.

Anyways, if it's all lined up on all axis it'll go all the way on just manipulating it with your hands. If you feel the urge to use the tightening of bolts to bring the two together don't do it. Something isn't lined up.
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Perfect on that last paragraph completely - A++

Trans-jack - a lot of roller jacks can be bought with an optional trans cradle for another $40-50. @gee, since you have a garage with a hard floor, maybe it's time to treat yourself to a decent roller jack with a trans cradle. It's an arm whipping job anyway, may as well make some of it easier.
 
My big jack died (and I bought it at Sears, so I ain't getting that fixed), and my little jack probably doesn't have enough travel or capacity to lift the front of the Corolla up, so treating myself to a good jack is in the plans.

By "good" jack, I mean the finest chinesium Power Fist jack that Princess Auto has to offer.
 
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wetwille said:
Perfect on that last paragraph completely - A++
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Some of em have enough play it'll seem like you're bringing it together but what you're really doing is pushing the shaft in and using the back of it to crack the rear of the case.

Guess how I know that.
 
gee said:
My big jack died (and I bought it at Sears, so I ain't getting that fixed), and my little jack probably doesn't have enough travel or capacity to lift the front of the Corolla up, so treating myself to a good jack is in the plans.

By "good" jack, I mean the finest chinesium Power Fist jack that Princess Auto has to offer.
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Chiluminum is worth the extra bucks if you think you might have cause to pick it up and carry it somewhere on occasion.
 
Mikeawesome said:
I bought one of those Daytona Jack's from harbor freight. Works pretty well
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My floor jack is a harbor freight from the 90s. All steel, including the wheels. Still works.
Thought about getting a new one year or 3 ago. Went through and cleaned gunk out the inside and replaced o-rings on this one instead.
 
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gee said:
Rockauto order made. Rear main oil seal, Sachs clutch kit, transmission input shaft seal, CV joint seals.

Gotta pick up a 12 point socket to get the CV joints out of the hubs, and either buy or cobble together a transmission jack to drop it out of the car, but it looks like I've got every other tool I need to do this job.
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Sachs always ships with an alignment tool, throw out bearing and pilot bushing. You're going to need a blind hole puller to get the old pilot bushing out, or a stepped grease fitting to pop it out. I once did the job on my Z with white bread and a 1/2" wood dowel.

Be prepared to resurface the flywheel too, because if the clutch had been slipping for a while, it's probably nice and heat-checked.

Never pulled a transverse trans, so good luck there.
 
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Forgot about the pilot bearing.

I fasten a little hook or L shaped whatever I could find on the end of a slide hammer/car dent pullerouter 'cause that's what I had laying around.

It "worked" but a real puller would work better. Another loaner tool item.
 
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