Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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gee said:
More thoughts:

Got a DMM? Measure the voltage on the HVAC -> ECU line when the HVAC controller hauls it low. It's possible the HVAC controller only hauls it down to 1.x volts because it's got a darlington output or something, and the ECU still treats it as a high signal.
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I'm not sure how I'd measure the voltage on the HVAC->ECU line.

I could probably measure resistance between the AC request line and ground, would that be valuable information?
 
One lead on chassis ground (which hopefully should be close to the ECU ground) and one lead on the ECU request line.
 
I ran into this with the trailer controller I'm stuffing in the audi. The car puts ~2V through the brake light filaments when the tail lights are on for some dumb reason, and it's enough to tell the trailer controller "yep, brakes are on". Had to tap the high mount brake light wire.
 
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gee said:
I ran into this with the trailer controller I'm stuffing in the audi. The car puts ~2V through the brake light filaments when the tail lights are on for some dumb reason, and it's enough to tell the trailer controller "yep, brakes are on". Had to tap the high mount brake light wire.
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Actual bulbs, or LEDs?
 
Yup. Every time I turn on the car.. BEEP front left fog light BEEP license plate light BEEP BEEP MOTHERFUCKER SPEND MONEY ON ME
 
The car makes up for it's Audi-ness with what it is, though. It's an awesome car.

It's a mid sized wagon so it can haul us, the dogs and a pile of camping gear. Actual good AWD system is awesome for the winter and for going on questionable roads, don't have to worry about making it up a gravel hill in the middle of the woods without spinning 1 wheel. No slouch on the highway and cozy as fuck, electrically-adjustable-every-way drivers' seat and leather interior that's held up to 13 years.

And surprisingly, it hasn't had anything break on it that can't be blamed on age.

Glamor shot:

qfZmlis.jpg
 
welp... my honda developed a bad case of the muffler farts this morning. I've still got exhaust blowing from the muffler, so its not completely disconnected, but its loud as shit.

Goin van shopping this week. Gonna get raped on price since theyre shipping everything used to houston.
 
Domon said:
welp... my honda developed a bad case of the muffler farts this morning. I've still got exhaust blowing from the muffler, so its not completely disconnected, but its loud as shit.

Goin van shopping this week. Gonna get raped on price since theyre shipping everything used to houston.
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Can't you just buy a replacement OEM muffler + pipe section from one of the kids that put a watermelon launcher on his Honda Accord?
 
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I could, but we need something new in the next couple months anyway, and this is kinda the last straw. No sense in sinking even a couple hundred bucks into it.
 
if i can find an obvious problem, which i should be able to from how much damn noise its making, ill ghetto rig something to silence it to "not getting pulled over" levels for a couple weeks.
 
Domon said:
if i can find an obvious problem, which i should be able to from how much damn noise its making, ill ghetto rig something to silence it to "not getting pulled over" levels for a couple weeks.
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JB Weld, a beer can, and two or three hose clamps should driver-MacGuyver it for you.
 
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Jehannum said:
If it's on a joint, you can always just arc weld it back together. A 10A or better battery charger makes a pretty good stick welder.
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Or a Harbor Freight flux core welder. Which is a decent thing to have if you don't weld often but need it for stuff like this.

Buy good wire for it and keep the wire dry and it works pretty nicely actually.
 
i already have a welder, obviously.

Im not good at it, but i can do basic welds.

But if something has detached itself.. its obviously not gonna be weld worthy material.
 
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