As I age, I find that specifying clutches that cost a bit more, but will actually hold double the torque of the stock motor are the way to go when driving a highly modified turbo car.It helps that most of @Jehannum's cars are right wheel drive.
Obviously @fly's mechanic can't do it in the garage. The garage is filled with these "potato mashers":Oh Mr. Fancypants with the concrete driveway and shit.
My first transmission retrieval was a 200R4 out of a pick-n-pull, and my dad told me, "Just let it down onto your chest", not realizing that it was bout 12" above me, still full of fluid, and about 100 lbs heavier than the Muncies he used to pull in the '70s.My way involves some scrap plywood. A large piece to roll the jack on and small ones to put under the stands.
Damn straight!Of course it's a fucking cattle dog.
OOFF!!My first transmission retrieval was a 200R4 out of a pick-n-pull, and my dad told me, "Just let it down onto your chest", not realizing that it was bout 12" above me, still full of fluid, and about 100 lbs heavier than the Muncies he used to pull in the '70s.
It knocked the wind out of me, and left a big yellow/brown pan-shaped bruise on me for 3 weeks.
I look back on those times I spent getting my first car (a shitpile Cadillac that my dad sold to me) running with him fondly, though I'm sure I said otherwise at the time.Damn straight!
OOFF!!
When I worked a trans shop we occasionally got a truck we couldn't pull all the way in - Sear delivery trucks. One time the deal was they laid the flywheel on my chest and then shoved me under by my legs. "Now stand it up kid". "It'd be easier to get it up for your mom, asshole!!!!!"
Well, if it's the lockup solenoid, you're fine driving it, you'll just get marginally worse fuel economy and you might heat your fluid up a bit more than normal.So a bit more Googling led me here, which has a post that tells how to check the lock up solenoid without dropping anything. I got 70 ohms off it, instead of 12. Yay, as that's only $100 part off Amazon.
How to Guide: Subaru CVT Repair (Valve body fix on the...
Video: How to: Get the Valve Body out. Since it's typically replaced as a unit it's been well documented else where. Here is a great video on it: Once it's out you'll need to confirm the solenoid is bad. The code should be a good indicator of which solenoid but it's good to confirm...www.subaruoutback.org
You're a good man for recognizing that. I was my pops step-n-fetcher, then his " turn that bolt - no, the other god-damn way!" guy after he blew his back out. My two older brothers never gelled with him to do any of that stuff. Now I - damnit, almost got ME cutting onions. Yeah, glad he gave me a start, has held me in good stead.I look back on those times I spent getting my first car (a shitpile Cadillac that my dad sold to me) running with him fondly, though I'm sure I said otherwise at the time.
Thank God he's still around so I can let him know.
yeah, all the lockup solenoid does is lock out the fluid coupling in the torque convertor. It makes a solid mechanical link between the crankshaft and the input shaft of the transmission.And assuming that diagnosis is correct, what the fuck does that thing do. More specifically, CAN I drive on surface streets or should I just stay off it entirely?
edit: Yay! Thanks @Jehannum. Fluid will get replaced anyway when he replaces the solenoid.
I was wondering about that when gee posted that solenoid. I see some of those Subaru valve bodies have 6 shifting solenoids? But yeah, that lockup isn't the same thing.Well, if it's the lockup solenoid, you're fine driving it, you'll just get marginally worse fuel economy and you might heat your fluid up a bit more than normal.
That'd be crazy shit if it had 6 solenoids, given it has two moving parts (the set of sheaves on the input shaft, and the set of sheaves on the output shaft).I was wondering about that when gee posted that solenoid. I see some of those Subaru valve bodies have 6 shifting solenoids? But yeah, that lockup isn't the same thing.
I have no idea what any of the shit does, but there are 3 solenoids on the valve body (all the same part no).I was wondering about that when gee posted that solenoid. I see some of those Subaru valve bodies have 6 shifting solenoids? But yeah, that lockup isn't the same thing.
Agreed. No idea, just reporting what I saw on the interwebs. It looks a bit nutz. But not entirely. Get rid of races with ball bearings and playing games with fluid that way. Use a bunch of solenoid-controlled valves.That'd be crazy shit if it had 6 solenoids, given it has two moving parts (the set of sheaves on the input shaft, and the set of sheaves on the output shaft).
1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-3, 3-2, 2-1?Agreed. No idea, reporting what I saw on the interwebs. It looks a bit nutz. But not entirely. Get rid of races with ball bears and playing games with fluid that way. Use a bunch of solenoid-controlled valves.
What is this shiite?
Set(6) 4EAT Transmission Solenoids Kit Fits For Subaru Forester 2.5 Outback NEW | eBay
Package Content (As Pictured) : 6x 4EAT Transmission Solenoids OE Part Number: 31705AA4419L, 31705-AA4419L, 31705 AA4419L 31705AA440, 31705-AA440, 31705 AA440 31705AA441, 31705-AA441, 31705 AA441 31939AA052, 31939-AA052, 31939 AA052 31939AA191, 31939-AA191, 31939 AA191 31939AA130, 31939-AA130...www.ebay.com