Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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ill be sure i hand them a bunch of loose sharp stuff that will absolutely be no safety risk at all when i stop suddently.

Perhaps table saw blades out of their packages. Or razor blades.
Well, you're transporting them in a minivan that's more than 2 years old, so basically that's what you're doing anyway...
 
Costco was out of my size wiper blades.

I know it was intentional.

Time for wipers on both vehicles again.

And to replace the window washer pump on the truck.

And to figure out how to disable whatever sensor it is on the Buick that thinks it knows how hard it's raining.
It has several settings for intermittent but seems to ignore my choices and adjust the frequency on its own.
I disagree with its choices.
 
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Time for wipers on both vehicles again.

And to replace the window washer pump on the truck.

And to figure out how to disable whatever sensor it is on the Buick that thinks it knows how hard it's raining.
It has several settings for intermittent but seems to ignore my choices and adjust the frequency on its own.
I disagree with its choices.

The automatic dog on the Quest stopped working. Now I have a spray bottle hanging on the door map pocket for use at red lights.
 
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The automatic dog on the Quest stopped working. Now I have a spray bottle hanging on the door map pocket for use at red lights.

I do the same thing with my water bottle. Slosh it across the window at red lights.


There's a thing on top the Buick dash that looks like a little dome camera lense. I assume it's the light sensor that automatically turns all the lights on when it's getting dark out. Don't know if the same one works the rain thing or not.

Gonna disconnect or jumper around it and see if it fixes the wiper problem. If not maybe it'll at least stop burning the life out of the headlights all damn day for no reason.

Gonna put some tape over it first and see what changes and what doesn't.
 
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I do the same thing with my water bottle. Slosh it across the window at red lights.


There's a thing on top the Buick dash that looks like a little dome camera lense. I assume it's the light sensor that automatically turns all the lights on when it's getting dark out. Don't know if the same one works the rain thing or not.

Gonna disconnect or jumper around it and see if it fixes the wiper problem. If not maybe it'll at least stop burning the life out of the headlights all damn day for no reason.

Gonna put some tape over it first and see what changes and what doesn't.


Yeah, some of that tech was iffy even when implemented.
 
Yeah, some of that tech was iffy even when implemented.

I guess it's time to get the Haynes manual for it, they're the best. Haven't had to do anything to it that needed a manual yet, just oil changes and a headlight bulb
But with their wiring diagrams I'll be able to figure out what to do to get rid of some of these "features" and just operate it like a normal car.

2002 is too new age for me, lol.
 
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I guess it's time to get the Haynes manual for it, they're the best. Haven't had to do anything to it that needed a manual yet, just oil changes and a headlight bulb
But with their wiring diagrams I'll be able to figure out what to do to get rid of some of these "features" and just operate it like a normal car.

2002 is too new age for me, lol.
Man wait on you get a car with a Bluetooth Telephone feature. Its total Star Trek
 
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AC repair means All your Cash repair.
I've yet to see anything to do with those I'd consider inexpensive once you crack the system open.
Especially if converting to R-134a. I had to spray about 5 gallons of acetone through the system to clear out all the old oil out of the lines, evaporator, and condenser without leaving residue behind, then swap the expansion valve for one that works for the pressures of R-134a, then swap a drier and pressure switch that work for R-134a. Then to top it all off, I had to separate the compressor housing to replace the rubber O-rings that sealed the housing together (it separated into 4 parts - the rear head, the crankcase, the front head, and the front housing/clutch mount) and clean that all in acetone to remove the old oil.

Then I had to put it all back together with new O-rings, make sure that I'd put everything together sufficiently air-tight, and add R-134a compatible oil, and then finally R-134a refrigerant.

It was a pain in my ass.
 
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Especially if converting to R-134a. I had to spray about 5 gallons of acetone through the system to clear out all the old oil out of the lines, evaporator, and condenser without leaving residue behind, then swap the expansion valve for one that works for the pressures of R-134a, then swap a drier and pressure switch that work for R-134a. Then to top it all off, I had to separate the compressor housing to replace the rubber O-rings that sealed the housing together (it separated into 4 parts - the rear head, the crankcase, the front head, and the front housing/clutch mount) and clean that all in acetone to remove the old oil.

Then I had to put it all back together with new O-rings, make sure that I'd put everything together sufficiently air-tight, and add R-134a compatible oil, and then finally R-134a refrigerant.

It was a pain in my ass.

At least you succeeded. I tried and failed a time or two, presumably didn't get things flushed and cleaned good enough. Also didn't think of the o-rings inside the compressor, and ever since just carried extra ice water and opened all the windows.
 
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At least you succeeded. I tried and failed a time or two, presumably didn't get things flushed and cleaned good enough. Also didn't think of the o-rings inside the compressor, and ever since just carried extra ice water and opened all the windows.
My compressor actually has a separate internal sump for oil that (incidentally, probably not by design, but by virtue of wear and imperfect seals) captures some blowby from the compressor that's impossible to swap oil around in without separating the housing. Apparently when R134a comes in contact with the oil that's not miscible, there's some kind of chemical reaction that turns the oil corrosive.

Seems like a horrible failure mode for the engineers to plan on when moving from one refrigerant to the other, but I guess their plan was just for everyone to buy new cars instead.
 
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My compressor actually has a separate internal sump for oil that (incidentally, probably not by design, but by virtue of wear and imperfect seals) captures some blowby from the compressor that's impossible to swap oil around in without separating the housing. Apparently when R134a comes in contact with the oil that's not miscible, there's some kind of chemical reaction that turns the oil corrosive.

Seems like a horrible failure mode for the engineers to plan on when moving from one refrigerant to the other, but I guess their plan was just for everyone to buy new cars instead.

That or "convert" really means "just replace everything".
 
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