Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles
- Thread starter Sarcasmo
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I put 260K on that car over 11 years, which ain't bad for an atlantic canadian car. It's been a hoot, I'll miss it when it's gone.
List of shit it needs: tires, brakes, exhaust, a wheel bearing, a few suspension parts, inner tie rods, handbrake cables, lots of bodywork (my rocker panels are fucked, and rust is creeping under the paint in lots of spots), rear wiper motor, cooling fan controller, an ABS sensor... and the dashboard illumination doesn't work anymore, and it isn't the headlight or dimmer switches or a fuse causing that. Fixing all that will cost way more than the car is worth.
Engine's still in good shape though, and VW replaced a bunch of bodywork on the car under corrosion warranty a few years back so I've got brand new doors, front fenders and a hatch. So it's a great parts car for someone.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Next project, mapping a PWM output to the boost gauge in my gauge cluster.
I started with the FSM, which states that the output of the factory MAP is 1.3v at -53.3kpa and 2.2v at 0kpa (relative to atmosphere), and diddled with my multimeter and my mityvac to confirm that it's roughly linear from 0-5V. Next, I set up a PWM output on my AEM to set the duty cycles to correspond with the same.
Now I need to find an appropriate DAC to convert the PWM output and drive the boost gauge without having the fucker actually hooked up (ongoing effort to simplify the vacuum galleries in the Z).
I started with the FSM, which states that the output of the factory MAP is 1.3v at -53.3kpa and 2.2v at 0kpa (relative to atmosphere), and diddled with my multimeter and my mityvac to confirm that it's roughly linear from 0-5V. Next, I set up a PWM output on my AEM to set the duty cycles to correspond with the same.
Now I need to find an appropriate DAC to convert the PWM output and drive the boost gauge without having the fucker actually hooked up (ongoing effort to simplify the vacuum galleries in the Z).
I wouldn't be surprised if my mechanic takes the car, to steal the engine for a Westfalia.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
I had to go back twice and leave the truck for ~3.5 hours the second time.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
It's pretty fuckin' easy, if you take the car to a place not full of fucktards.
Theoretically my 8% of car weight in the drivers seat *could* throw it off I guess?
I don't have time for this shit.
I don't have time for this shit.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Yeah, that's probably enough of a significant amount to do that. Mercedes and BMW usually have special weights and shit to put in the driver's seat.
#miatalife #lightness (e.g. if the wheels aren't perfectly, absolutely perfectly, balanced you get 65mph shimmy)
It isn't super far off, so lesson learned I guess.
Now I get to pretend I'm a racecar driver and get it aligned while I sit in it?
If this were the case, would the steering wheel (top) then need be pointed right to compensate?
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Yes? I think?
Its also possible they've aligned it to compensate for road crown.
I thought that might be it, but it was off even in the left lane of a split highway with a full crown per side.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
RF camber over
LR toe under
Thrust angle .18
SAI both under
Wheelbase diff .44"
LR toe under
Thrust angle .18
SAI both under
Wheelbase diff .44"
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