Ontopic The new car-seching thread

HipHugHer

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There's a whole section of the installation that is confusing enough that I'm leaving it to my tuner - the timing control.

I guess the basic gist is that you completely lock out the advance mechanisms in the distributor, set the magnetic trigger to around 50 crank degrees before the actual event, then use an offset distributor rotor and set it all somehow in the ECU.

It seems pretty complicated. I have all of the parts to do it, just no confidence that I can.
That seems unnecessarily complicated but I can't put into words why. I get they'd need to be timed to the length of the manifold pathway. That "wind speed" would increase with rpm, ie: gets from injector to cylinder in less time.

You also got regular distributor and rotor and spark timing still needs to advance somehow as revs increase.

Seems they could've just used spark timing (or a crank position sensor) as a trigger and set the injectors to fire some milliseconds before (probably where that 50 degrees comes from). Then that would be a parameter you could adjust on the little screen, tuning it from inside the car.

I didn't watch the entire video. I'm assuming they just used the 4 injectors to get enough fuel in there to make big power. They're too close together and too far away from the heads to do much good triggering them individually it seems like, maybe not.

Cool stuff anyways. Just trying to think of a simpler way for it to grab a point in time or point in rotation to use to time the injectors from. Maybe that would require a couple extra parts and wiring and they were trying to keep the overall kit as bolt-on/few individual parts as possible.

Can you program a couple different settings in it? Like one for lower power but more manageable for driving in heavy traffic, etc. and one for maximum fun.
Could trigger something like that off the TPS too. Would be akin to flooring it and opening the 4-barrels, lol.
 
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Jehannum

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That seems unnecessarily complicated but I can't put into words why. I get they'd need to be timed to the length of the manifold pathway. That "wind speed" would increase with rpm, ie: gets from injector to cylinder in less time.

You also got regular distributor and rotor and spark timing still needs to advance somehow as revs increase.

Seems they could've just used spark timing (or a crank position sensor) as a trigger and set the injectors to fire some milliseconds before (probably where that 50 degrees comes from). Then that would be a parameter you could adjust on the little screen, tuning it from inside the car.

I didn't watch the entire video. I'm assuming they just used the 4 injectors to get enough fuel in there to make big power. They're too close together and too far away from the heads to do much good triggering them individually it seems like, maybe not.

Cool stuff anyways. Just trying to think of a simpler way for it to grab a point in time or point in rotation to use to time the injectors from. Maybe that would require a couple extra parts and wiring and they were trying to keep the overall kit as bolt-on/few individual parts as possible.

Can you program a couple different settings in it? Like one for lower power but more manageable for driving in heavy traffic, etc. and one for maximum fun.
Could trigger something like that off the TPS too. Would be akin to flooring it and opening the 4-barrels, lol.
It makes perfect sense to me, but I don't want to do the math and line it all up. :p

I haven't looked at valet key stuff, but it does have a few different inputs that are user definable that can alter the enrichment and timing tables (if you enable the timing control). I reckon I'll do a couple down the road - fuel composition sensor for flex fuel stuff and AC input for higher idle.
 

HipHugHer

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I guess I'm confused with "lock out the advance mechanisms in the distributor". How does it advance spark timing then? Or is it just using the distributor as a cam position sensor and you got coil pack(s) on there that will tie into this ECU??
 

Jehannum

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I guess I'm confused with "lock out the advance mechanisms in the distributor". How does it advance spark timing then? Or is it just using the distributor as a cam position sensor and you got coil pack(s) on there that will tie into this ECU??
It uses the distributor's magnetic pickup as a cam position sensor, and then adjusts dwell and timing with a coil controller. The sweep of the rotor (I guess?) gives all the advance/retard that you need. Remember that degrees BTDC of advance as measured at the crank are twice what you need at the distributor to do the deed.

But yeah, you lock the vacuum advance completely out (bolt the plate that the arm actuates to the body of the distributor), and disable the centrifugal advance (pin the advance cams to the center of the quill).
 

HipHugHer

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Start adding electronic control/modern stuff to the old stuff you could just keep adding and adding it seems.
"Hey if we can make it do that we could also make it do this", etc.

At first I was trying to see where you drilled & tapped for injectors in the intake runners down next to the head and couldn't see any. Forgot about the old TBI way, lol.
Still makes for a lot better control though.
Intake is already designed to "make the mix" along the way so injectors upstream that are more of a showerhead/sprayer than a modern direct injector makes sense.
And less futzing with each individual cylinder fuel delivery and more extra parts, etc.
 
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Jehannum

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Start adding electronic control/modern stuff to the old stuff you could just keep adding and adding it seems.
"Hey if we can make it do that we could also make it do this", etc.

At first I was trying to see where you drilled & tapped for injectors in the intake runners down next to the head and couldn't see any. Forgot about the old TBI way, lol.
Still makes for a lot better control though.
Intake is already designed to "make the mix" along the way so injectors upstream that are more of a showerhead/sprayer than a modern direct injector makes sense.
And less futzing with each individual cylinder fuel delivery and more extra parts, etc.
If anybody bugs me about how it's worse than port fuel injection, I'll just say it's like the old F1 fuel injection:
 
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Mr. Asa

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Motor mount tore. Fucked my radiator.
Aftermarket mounts suck, Ford doesn't make 'em anymore. Gonna fabricate my own. Gonna basically look like this, but cost maybe $40 in material

Any of you guys have online shops you like for basic welding tabs and such? I generally go to Ballistic Fabrication, but they don't have the tabs I want right now.
Working on this stupid thing. Got some parts in so I could start to measure without disassembling the truck

Tomorrow I'll dig in the garage enough to get my welder out and tack it all into place, as well as complete the rest of the tabs and such.
Wheeeeee

























 

Jehannum

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Played hooky this afternoon from work, and went down to the U Pull U Pay to help my friend snag bullshit for his Legacy wagon, his 4 runner, and his Avalon.

Wasn't thinking about it, but happened across a relatively complete Infiniti M35. I'm so used to that being the "new" car that I didn't even think about pulling them up before I left to see if they had any, so I snagged a tail lamp and the stereo out of it so that hopefully I can fix @AppleTurkey's.
 
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Jehannum

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Hell yeah, started it for the first time with EFI.


Gonna take it around the block tomorrow and let it self-tune for a bit. In 2 weeks, I'm on my tuner's calendar to have him do the computer controlled timing and street and dyne tune it.
 

shamwow

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Hell yeah, started it for the first time with EFI.


Gonna take it around the block tomorrow and let it self-tune for a bit. In 2 weeks, I'm on my tuner's calendar to have him do the computer controlled timing and street and dyne tune it.
Sounds good. What kinda standalone is that?