Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread
- Thread starter Duke
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@Mr. Argumentor
Ramp/soak PID controller is the way to go - I've got a couple of Omega CN7500s that'd do the job. Whatever one you pick, make sure the thing takes a suitable thermistor/thermocouple that can handle the kiln temperature.
Now the CN7500 user interface is garbage. Most controllers like this are. I hook mine up to a PC and use their software to configure it because the front panel interface sucks so bad. There's probably better choices.
Don't worry about switching 240V in the controller, using a separate SSR or even a mechanical relay is fine.
Ramp/soak PID controller is the way to go - I've got a couple of Omega CN7500s that'd do the job. Whatever one you pick, make sure the thing takes a suitable thermistor/thermocouple that can handle the kiln temperature.
Now the CN7500 user interface is garbage. Most controllers like this are. I hook mine up to a PC and use their software to configure it because the front panel interface sucks so bad. There's probably better choices.
Don't worry about switching 240V in the controller, using a separate SSR or even a mechanical relay is fine.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
I'll look into them, thanks
Ease of use is going to be as important as anything else in this. At least two are going to one of my wife's friends and I don't want to have to field her phone calls whenever she forgets how to do this. Same for my wife's usage as well, really.
With that in mind, how bad is "garbage"? Like, hot stinky, New Jersey barge in the middle of the hottest week of summer, or just sitting on the curb waiting to be picked up?
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
I followed this for a PID-control oven, and was planning to build my own enclosure before my shitty oven's controller died, now it just sits on my wall and controls the oven in the garage: https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
This is true - expert layperson. I've been maintaining my step-daughter's old pottery kilns for last 18 years and my(5 workers) for last 8. And have done several mods. Some of those kilns may be only rated for cone 6, hence my comment on k23 or k28 brick. If only rated to cone 6 he'll destroy them quickly trying to melt metal. The rating is on the manufacturer's plate. Even cheaper cone 10 kilns will struggle with metal unless spec'd for "true cone 10" which some will call cone 12(it's made up). And you really want Kanthal elements to take that kind of a beating. You can pick up a bare-bones Orton** circuit board PID for about $150 - will need thermcouple(type k) and a transformer and relays. It's nice that it already makes sense for people doing glass or you can switch to a pottery or metal clay program. Generic PIDs are nice but other people will throw up their hands at helping you if they can't relate to your gear.
*Kiln brick will melt if gotten hot enough - seen that
**Dr.Orton developed that lovely cone system for pottery. Orton and Bartlett make equally good shiite. They make LCD screened, wi-fi compatible controllers but they start around $750.
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The mechanical relays wear out real fast with glass work - you have to ramp so friggin slow. Like, I have to ramp at 45f/hr on my bigger pieces., like 1.5 seconds on, 10 seconds off. Then work times of 7-12 hours once I reach the top temp. Then annealing hold and ramps to move through the actual anneal slowly and then cool take almost 2 days. 10's of thousands of clicks for one piece. SSRs - but please encourage him to build in lots of headroom, they lose carrying capacity real quickly under ambient heat and their own. Like, I use two 40 amp ssrs per kiln and each is only carrying 7.5-8 amp. They get mildly warm. I installed a laptop fan just in case since the controllers run off 12v.
Oh, and the sound of mechanical relays is like being in a cuckoo clock shop if you have several kilns going. It's not that comforting after you've had one freeze ON. *You don't notice it didn't click off
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Alternate answer on controller. Look for a badly damaged kiln on craigs or FB marketplace and snag the digital controller and all connectors. Manufacturers make some nice connector shit that is hard to find, particularly where the elements hook up. I've got entire controllers for $150-200 by hunting. One was NOS, still factory sealed with everything - cabinet, cord, thermocouple, transformer. That was dumb - someone should have tried to outbid me.
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Ok yeah, I didn't realize that kiln firings take that long. Definitely go with the SSR.The mechanical relays wear out real fast with glass work - you have to ramp so friggin slow. Like, I have to ramp at 45f/hr on my bigger pieces., like 1.5 seconds on, 10 seconds off. Then work times of 7-12 hours once I reach the top temp. Then annealing hold and ramps to move through the actual anneal slowly and then cool take almost 2 days. 10's of thousands of clicks for one piece. SSRs - but please encourage him to build in lots of headroom, they lose carrying capacity real quickly under ambient heat and their own. Like, I use two 40 amp ssrs per kiln and each is only carrying 7.5-8 amp. They get mildly warm. I installed a laptop fan just in case since the controllers run off 12v.
Oh, and the sound of mechanical relays is like being in a cuckoo clock shop if you have several kilns going. It's not that comforting after you've had one freeze ON. *You don't notice it didn't click off
And agreed on SSR heat. Get one that comes on a heatsink already with a means of mounting it. They drop a couple volts and at 30A (say) that's 60W of heat you have to dissipate. A vertical heatsink and passive cooling is fine, but make sure the whole box containing the SSR is well ventilated. I wouldn't get clever trying to mount one to a CPU cooler or anything, just buy the big dumb heatsink.
That 60w feels about right. Like a small incandescent is inside.
His metal melting would be ok with mechanicals since that poor kiln is going on and pretty much staying there for the duration. One exception to that is if you have a graphite crucible and have placed chonks of metal in - you want to heat those slowly and reach in and move them about gently until say 800f, so they have finished expanding for most part. Otherwise, they can get jammed together and break the crucible. Safer to melt one chunk half way and add pieces, like melting chocolate, no jams.
Oh, most of those kilns, with say 40 lbs of metal and a crucible in it will take probably 6-7 hours of continuous running to get to 2000f. Empty they might be able to do 1000f upward per hour.
Are you using Unraid? Cause maybe I need to pick your brain on how to set it up.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
I mean, ideally they come equipped with a pretty wide range of armaments which would make them, if not ideal, at least suitable for just about any combat situation they happen to engage in.So how in the fuck do I setup Frigate up to work?
Nowadays with current Naval CONOPS, they're generally just a part of a larger support fleet for an aircraft carrier, because unless it's a sub, the USN treats every ship as a part of a CSG.
i assume you have community applications installed.
Get GPU Statistics up and running as a first step
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Get GPU Statistics up and running as a first step
[PLUGIN] GPU Statistics
This thread will serve as the support thread for the GPU statistics plugin (gpustat). UPDATE: 2022-02-20 - Shinobi Pro, NSFMiner, F@H and reactivated Emby app detection (thanks to @corgan for the first two) Prerequisite: 6.7.1+ Unraid-Nvidia plugin with NVIDIA kernel drivers installed. 6.9.0 Beta...
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The install the nvidia version of frigate, following this guide
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[SUPPORT] blakeblackshear - Frigate
IMPORTANT PLEASE LAST UPDATE TO V0.9.x IS A BREAKING CHANGE, PLEASE READ THE CHANGELOG TO UPDATE YOUR CONFIG FILE Support for Frigate docker container. Uses OpenCV and Tensorflow to perform realtime object detection locally for IP cameras. Designed for integration with HomeAssistant or others via...
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also, buy a coral, and an adapter if needed. I bought the dual coral just for futureproofing, and a 1x pci-e adapter to house it in (its m.2 e-key... which is not common).
If you can get a USB coral, thats obviously easiest.... but theyve been outta stock everywhere for 8 months
If you can get a USB coral, thats obviously easiest.... but theyve been outta stock everywhere for 8 months