Pics History of an Old Boat

[HipHugHer]

I don't know much about these speedboats and pleasure boats and stuff. We all just had regular old fishing boats. A "big" motor was a 9.9. This because the fishing is always better "up north", haha. Didn't matter where you were at, fishing is always better further north. Lot of lakes up there were absolutely pristine clean and kept that way because legal restrictions of 10hp limit on fishing boats and no water sports of any kind.

 

[gee]

@gee @Jehannum @Domon @Mustard Dispenser

I'm replacing the shaft on the steering column as it was damaged when I removed it from the boat. Originally it was a hollow brass or bronze shaft, threaded on either end for a small nut, and with a couple of holes through it for keys to prevent the steering wheel and the rope pulleys from slipping. It had a plastic bushing on the front and back side of it.
The steering body is cast aluminum.

I'm looking at solid stainless steel, aluminum, or brass rod.
I'll install bushings again once I install the new rod, so I shouldn't need to worry about any sort of galvanic corrosion.

Naval brass is best, easy to machine, great corrosion resistance, but a bit spendy.
Aluminum is very easy to machine, and cheap, but you'll want to get it hard anodized (which isn't too hard to do yourself) otherwise it'll corrode at the bushings.
316 stainless would probably be ideal, but it's harder to machine.

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

I took a quick look at McMaster when I was posting this, and I believe that 1 foot (maybe need 8-10 inches) is under $15 per material. Not too bad
About the only consideration with that is I could probably snag a 1' section of 6061 from the shop.

Never looked into homegrown hard anodizing.

 

[gee]

Here's a pretty good DIY on anodizing:

http://astro.neutral.org/anodise5.shtml

They suggest using a lead cathode, but aluminum is fine. Make sure the aluminum piece you're anodizing is polished to a smooth finish where the bushings will be.

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

Interesting, would have to setup a definite work area for that. Don't think Ladybutt wants me to have acids and electricity in the kitchen

 

[gee]

Do it outdoors. The process generates hydrogen gas.

 

[Jehannum]

Do it outdoors. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Cool, so do it in a container you can seal and collect balloons of hydrogen!

Then sneak up behind unsuspecting bystanders with a lighter and a balloon.

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

Yup, that's the one.

I'd never seen a WaterWitch before. That thing is a piece of art.

Most stuff where we grew up (Minnesota 70's & 80s) was your typical Evinrude, Johnson, and Mercury, although a friend of mine had a little old 3 or 4 horse that was made by I think Oliver, or somebody that also made tractors.

That Oliver is worth a lot now. The people that collect the Oliver tractors spend STUPID amounts to get one of the outboards.

I don't know much about these speedboats and pleasure boats and stuff. We all just had regular old fishing boats. A "big" motor was a 9.9. This because the fishing is always better "up north", haha. Didn't matter where you were at, fishing is always better further north. Lot of lakes up there were absolutely pristine clean and kept that way because legal restrictions of 10hp limit on fishing boats and no water sports of any kind.

I know about those type of lakes, most of em are no-motor now. Wife's family is from this completely podunk place in Minnesota with a lot of em

 

[HipHugHer]

That Oliver is worth a lot now. The people that collect the Oliver tractors spend STUPID amounts to get one of the outboards.

I know about those type of lakes, most of em are no-motor now. Wife's family is from this completely podunk place in Minnesota with a lot of em

At that time, way north in the boundary waters was no motor, basically canoe trips. Some others up there were small motor. Of course this was 25-30 years ago. I hope it's still like that.....pristine wilderness.

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

So, I'm trying to figure out how to refurbish this piece. It's the transom clamp plate, so it's fairly important that it works properly.
I know that originally it was just a sheet of aluminum with the rubber wrapped around it when it was pliable. That isn't really feasible now as I don't have the rubber.

Maybe I could glue two sheets of rubber together somehow?

Any ideas @Jehannum @Domon @gee @Mustard Dispenser ?

 

[Jehannum]

@Mr. Asa, is the height of the piece of importance?

If not, undercoat it or (gag!) plasti-dip it.

Alternatively, clean up the rubber with some acetone or lacquer thinner, mask the exposed rubber and paint the exposed aluminum.

 

[Domon]

dip it. Plenty of rubber based coatings thatll do the job.

 

[Domon]

@Mr. Asa, is the height of the piece of importance?

If not, undercoat it or (gag!) plasti-dip it.

yep, plastidip was my first thought too, but might not be "rubbery" enough to make a seal if it needs to.

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

At that time, way north in the boundary waters was no motor, basically canoe trips. Some others up there were small motor. Of course this was 25-30 years ago. I hope it's still like that.....pristine wilderness.

I replied to this once.
It's even more restrictive now, at least up the Gunflint Trail. Absolutely beautiful, all over

 

[Domon]

for us non-boaty people, does the transom clamp plate keep the water outta the boat?

 

[Jehannum]

for us non-boaty people, does the transom clamp plate keep the water outta the boat?

My knowledge of boats is sketchy, but "transom clamp plate" implies that it's clamping to the transom, so probably not a "keep water outta the boat" piece.

 

[HipHugHer]

for us non-boaty people, does the transom clamp plate keep the water outta the boat?

Transom is the "back wall" of the boat. Metal plate fits over it so you can clamp the motor on tight without running the clamps through the fiberglass (or wood).

 

[Mr. Argumentor]

@Mr. Asa, is the height of the piece of importance?

If not, undercoat it or (gag!) plasti-dip it.

Alternatively, clean up the rubber with some acetone or lacquer thinner, mask the exposed rubber and paint the exposed aluminum.

I was wondering about both of those. Height isn't hugely important, so long as I keep the entire height of the part and it's mounting surface under 2 inches. With this part I've got maybe 3/4 of an inch that I could theoretically add to it.
None of the aluminum on this was originally painted, trying to keep it that way with the refurbished and "new" stuff

yep, plastidip was my first thought too, but might not be "rubbery" enough to make a seal if it needs to.

for us non-boaty people, does the transom clamp plate keep the water outta the boat?

No seal needed on this. This is the piece where the outboard motor actually clamps to the transom.
You can sort of see it at the stern of the boat in this pic.

The rubber on this is important because the outside and inside of this transom has aluminum on it. When you have that you end up not having the motor clamp down properly on the transom and can have the motor walk off the boat. The rubber allows it to get enough squeeze to allow it to lock in. That being said, I'll still put a lock cable on the motor to prevent it from going into the drink.

 

[Domon]

i sees it.

yep, id dip it.

 

[Jehannum]

i sees it.

yep, id dip it.

I wouldn't dip it. I'd undercoat, and for this reason: plastidip is intended to lose adhesion suddenly (when you peel it), whereas undercoating stays where it's put.