Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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Guy told me a story that he had toured a Ford truck plant on a day Raptors were being built. Tour guide told them they were all going to China because they were status symbols for the rich over there and people were paying like $150,000 for them.

Guy was a real talker but it turns out he was right.
They stand out from the crowd, and really let people know you got money if you have one.
Import taxes and red tape makes them expensive and hard to get, then demand and dealer markup and more buying and reselling runs the price up even more.

https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2012/11/the-new-chinese-status-symbol-fords-svt-raptor.html
 
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wetwille said:
Saw these 4 blasts from the past. All have less than 50k miles, allegedly. The Econoline says "South Texas" - guy is asking $10k. Oh - 1966.View attachment 5786View attachment 5787View attachment 5788
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Stuff from back then doesn't rust to pieces here like it does up north. Can keep running them as long as you can keep fixing them.

Exception being something living very close to the coast that's been neglected for a very long time.
 
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My brother had a 66(67?) Econoline like that with the double side doors on BOTH sides. He was a piano tuner and sometimes mover and at least once a small spinet piano was laid across the back after the doors were lifted off the hinges. They were built that way for quick removal.
 
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That's a big dildo. Lots of supports! I go out of my way to design shit so that I don't need them, but guess there's no other way.

Brought up the 30V rated MOSFETs and lack of catch diodes on a reddit discussion, Naomi Wu (who has a lot of pull with Creality) is forwarding my post to them. Hopefully this leads to a better control board coming out.

Dude making the new 32 bit controller made the same "no catch diodes" mistake too. Fired him a PM and he's like "shit, that'll be fixed on v2" :/
 
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gee said:
That's a big dildo. Lots of supports! I go out of my way to design shit so that I don't need them, but guess there's no other way.

Brought up the 30V rated MOSFETs and lack of catch diodes on a reddit discussion, Naomi Wu (who has a lot of pull with Creality) is forwarding my post to them. Hopefully this leads to a better control board coming out.

Dude making the new 32 bit controller made the same "no catch diodes" mistake too. Fired him a PM and he's like "shit, that'll be fixed on v2" :/
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I asked him about the 30V FETs and the guy said that the overhead was fine. IDK what to think about that.
 
Jehannum said:
I asked him about the 30V FETs and the guy said that the overhead was fine. IDK what to think about that.
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30V means "above 30V, good possibility you'll put your FET into avalanche"

It's switching 24V, but that leaves a 6V margin, which ain't much, especially operating as a load switch without a flyback diode present. FET turns off, current in the heatbed keeps flowing for a moment due to the bed/wiring inductance and you get a voltage spike across the FET because there's no diode to catch it. The flyback spike is especially bad for things like relays and motors but a PCB heatbed is still a big air core inductor with a significant bit of inductance.

If a FET goes into avalanche, it starts conducting, and it will stay conducting until the voltage across it drops below some other voltage where it cuts off. If this voltage is below 24V, the avalanche sustains, some current keeps flowing through the FET and your FET overheats and fails. 99% chance this is what happened to your printer.
 
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Starting point: smelling stanky old gas that'd soaked into the rubber texture around the sending unit.

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I added some generic weatherstripping I picked up at lowe's to the edge of the hole so that I wouldn't wear through the wires (not pictured).

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Fitment is OK, I had to bend the tab for mounting the interior just a smidge, and I had to make the cable hole bigger (on the printed cover, which was easily accomplished by a set of dikes and nippers), but overall, I'm happy and now stanky-fume free in the cabin.
 
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Because I'm too cheap to buy an AEM serial gauge for $200, I decided to waste my time building one with an arduino. I have half the project done - I defined the (very simple) state machine and the data I care about displaying (also wrote a simple library for managing values and statistics over time: https://github.com/Jehannum505/StoreManage). It's got two buttons - one to switch units between SI and imperial, and one to toggle a hold on the current display (otherwise it'll swap between the 3 measurements - Ethanol content, MAP reading, and water temperature every 8 seconds). It updates the display every 1/4 second.

Now I'm going to go and plug a serial cable into my AEM S2 and let it puke data into a file so I can figure out how to parse it.

Then comes the real fun of packaging it up. I'll probably 3D print the cases, because once you've got a 3D printer, every problem requires a new dildo.

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