Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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MapleySyrup said:
I'm not a big fan of a wagon either, but I figure it's better than a minivan :shudders: I looked at that VW wagon and I think no. It is going to be more expensive to maintain than what I would want in a car and despite the fact that it gets good fuel economy it's only slightly better than my current car and the gas costs more money. I'm sure I still come out ahead on fuel savings but with the more expensive maintenance it doesn't make sense. Hating the way the car looks on top of that doesn't help at all. I guess I'll keep looking.
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Did I read you say you want room for TWO car seats????? Waaaat
 
And after saying a bunch of great things about my VW being excellent/reliable, I lost an ignition coil pack on the way home. Limped the car home but it sits in the driveway, can't buy a replacement until Monday.

Fack.

At least coilpacks are only about $30.
 
Oh, and Torque (available on the Android market, <$5) and a cheap bluetooth OBD2 adapter off ebay ($12 shipped) = totally worth it.
 
My 2006 Subaru Forester burns through a Qt of oil I would estimate every 750mi or so. Tailpipe is black with soot/deposits. I know this because once last year I went to get my oil changed (I am almost religious about it every 3,000mi) and there was no oil on the dipstick and was down by 3Qts (reservoir holds 4.3Qt or so). I had no idiot light on saying low oil (that I know would be dangerous/seize engine red area). The Forester has about 132,000mi. This issue seemed to come on pretty quickly, I'd say around 120,000mi. Maybe 5-10k after I had the head gasket replaced. My mechanic says the issue is probably piston rings, either lined up perfectly to let oil slip into the chamber or some other issue.

Is this worth paying lots of money to have the engine ripped apart? It is my only vehicle. I need a vehicle to do my job. It needs to be reliable. So far it has been.
 
hawk82 said:
My 2006 Subaru Forester burns through a Qt of oil I would estimate every 750mi or so. Tailpipe is black with soot/deposits. I know this because once last year I went to get my oil changed (I am almost religious about it every 3,000mi) and there was no oil on the dipstick and was down by 3Qts (reservoir holds 4.3Qt or so). I had no idiot light on saying low oil (that I know would be dangerous/seize engine red area). The Forester has about 132,000mi. This issue seemed to come on pretty quickly, I'd say around 120,000mi. Maybe 5-10k after I had the head gasket replaced. My mechanic says the issue is probably piston rings, either lined up perfectly to let oil slip into the chamber or some other issue.

Is this worth paying lots of money to have the engine ripped apart? It is my only vehicle. I need a vehicle to do my job. It needs to be reliable. So far it has been.
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Did he quote you how much to repair?
 
My friend's a subaru mechanic, just asked his opinion.

Probably an oil control ring failure. Happens if the car gets bad oil - not getting changed, lots of start/stop driving causing gas to contaminate the oil, or head gasket failure. Excessive piston/cylinder clearance can cause the ring to pop out also. You'll have to rebuild the engine to fix it. If you don't fix it, eventually the oil consumption will reach the point where the car won't run correctly. And a bad ring could gouge the bore. It's probably not worth it to have the dealer do the work. Try finding a local speed shop that builds subaru engines, get them to do a quote.
 
Coqui said:
Did he quote you how much to repair?
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No. Kind of one of those things you don't know until the engine is ripped apart.

gee said:
My friend's a subaru mechanic, just asked his opinion.

Probably an oil control ring failure. Happens if the car gets bad oil - not getting changed, lots of start/stop driving causing gas to contaminate the oil, or head gasket failure. Excessive piston/cylinder clearance can cause the ring to pop out also. You'll have to rebuild the engine to fix it. If you don't fix it, eventually the oil consumption will reach the point where the car won't run correctly. And a bad ring could gouge the bore. It's probably not worth it to have the dealer do the work. Try finding a local speed shop that builds subaru engines, get them to do a quote.
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I don't use a dealer since they screwed me royally. I had a dealership (place where I bought the Forester used) replace the timing belt. Everything I read online said to have them change the head gasket at the same time since it is like another hour of labor and you have the timing belt out of the way. The dealership said I didn't need to do that. A few months later the head gasket blew on one side. Went to a local guy and he said, yep I always change head gaskets every 100k mi and timing belt at the same time to save labor.

Rings sound like the cause. Bleh....
 
Could be easier to find a junkyard engine and get that rebuilt, then pull the old crappy one and swap em. Sorta depends on how cheaply you can find a junkyard engine
 
gee said:
And after saying a bunch of great things about my VW being excellent/reliable, I lost an ignition coil pack on the way home. Limped the car home but it sits in the driveway, can't buy a replacement until Monday.

Fack.

At least coilpacks are only about $30.
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Lolololol you don't carry them with you? I thought all VW guys did
 
CletusJones said:
Lolololol you don't carry them with you? I thought all VW guys did
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Stock 1.8T coilpacks don't hold up to lots of ignition dwell + high RPM. Put an aggressive tune on a 1.8T and drive the piss out of it and it'll eat coilpacks. My car's running a stock tune and rarely ever gets floored - I drive aggressively but not like a douche. Haven't lost one since '06.

Anyway, car's working again - posted on the local VW forum and managed to trade a couple of dogfish head 90s for a couple of spare coilpacks. The bad one I pulled out of my car had a crack in the case, I'm assuming moisture got in and took it out.
 
Yeah, replace the sensor.

There's no way to clean them. Sensors are made out of a porous ceramic and contamination penetrates into them, so you can't scrub them. Cleaners that react with carbon (carb cleaner, etc) will destroy the sensor.

If you've got a black or oil soaked sensor, find out what's causing it and fix it before putting in a new sensor.
 
Don't know what the sensor looks like yet, just know that my mileage has dropped a couple MPG, so I'm wondering if that might be the cause. Tune up and everything else is fairly recent, so I can't think of anything else that it might be
 
Mr. Asa said:
Don't know what the sensor looks like yet, just know that my mileage has dropped a couple MPG, so I'm wondering if that might be the cause. Tune up and everything else is fairly recent, so I can't think of anything else that it might be
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Can you see the O2 working via a scan tool or dvom?

May also want to check for intake track leaks.
 
gee said:
Stock 1.8T coilpacks don't hold up to lots of ignition dwell + high RPM. Put an aggressive tune on a 1.8T and drive the piss out of it and it'll eat coilpacks. My car's running a stock tune and rarely ever gets floored - I drive aggressively but not like a douche. Haven't lost one since '06.

Anyway, car's working again - posted on the local VW forum and managed to trade a couple of dogfish head 90s for a couple of spare coilpacks. The bad one I pulled out of my car had a crack in the case, I'm assuming moisture got in and took it out.
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Gotcha. I'm an animal like that, my car sees redline several times a week.
 
Mr. Asa said:
Would have to track down a Ford specific tool, OBDI
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On my parents' old ford escort wagon, you could jumper two wires in the test connector and the CEL would blink out the code. I distinctly remember pulling an oxygen sensor code this way.
 
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