The new one is an upright freezer.Ok. Don't see many chest freezers with auto-defrost or a light but I suppose better ones are like that. Carry on.
The new one is an upright freezer.Ok. Don't see many chest freezers with auto-defrost or a light but I suppose better ones are like that. Carry on.
Until this upgrade happens, our fermentor is an old college fridge thing we got on CL for like $50 or something.I need to make room for another cold storage something.
I’d like to produce something other than what ferments at room temp.
Until this upgrade happens, our fermentor is an old college fridge thing we got on CL for like $50 or something.
Also, if you haven't, try Omega Hot Head yeast. I think they call it a DIPA yeast, but works pretty well for a lot of styles - and you can ferment at up to 90F. No need to worry about a fermentation chamber!Nice brah! Pass the Funyuns!
Also, if you haven't, try Omega Hot Head yeast. I think they call it a DIPA yeast, but works pretty well for a lot of styles - and you can ferment at up to 90F. No need to worry about a fermentation chamber!
Looks(from pic) like the blue & red are sharing a lug. Black is supply(hot) so the blue/red lug is feeding two different pieces of the circuit, most likely compressor and the fan. On the unit that was intended for. You can ignore the extra wire, but cap it off for safetySo what do you fucks know about fridge/freezer tstats? This tstat is for a fridge, but is in the same form factor as my upright freezer. I would just order it, but it has an extra wire and I don't know what it's for. My current one has a ground and then two wires for the relay to turn on the compressor.
Any idea what the extra wire is for?
Amazon product ASIN B07B3RL3H9
edit: @gee
Think its safe to assume that the amperage rating would be similar? This is the freezer one.Looks(from pic) like the blue & red are sharing a lug. Black is supply(hot) so the blue/red lug is feeding two different pieces of the circuit, most likely compressor and the fan. On the unit that was intended for. You can ignore the extra wire, but cap it off for safety
If it's triggering a relay like you said above, the amperage rating isn't going to make one shake of a dingo's pecker worth of difference.Think its safe to assume that the amperage rating would be similar? This is the freezer one.
Amazon product ASIN B07PPF25F1
I was trying to check in my conversion app and it wasnt listedFor sake of clarity, a single shake of a dingos pecker is a pretty small amount.
As Jehhany said, if it's triggering a relay it won't matter, since point of using a relay is to not have to run wall current around in a device. But those wires look pretty beefy - I'm thinking it's rated for as much as the original. You'll be fine.Think its safe to assume that the amperage rating would be similar? This is the freezer one.
Amazon product ASIN B07PPF25F1
I dunno what this shit is. There is sealed gas in an accordion, as it warms up, it expands. That expansion closes a circuit and the compressor turns on. The whole thing looks pretty simple, so my assumption is that 120v is running through it.If it's triggering a relay like you said above, the amperage rating isn't going to make one shake of a dingo's pecker worth of difference.
If this thing _is_ the relay, then it's gotta be up to the amperage rating of the appliance.I dunno what this shit is. There is sealed gas in an accordion, as it warms up, it expands. That expansion closes a circuit and the compressor turns on. The whole thing looks pretty simple, so my assumption is that 120v is running through it.
That makes sense?
That would make sense, if there were one temperature adjustment for both the fridge and the freezer.So the fridge thermo has two outs?
Prolly one for fridge, one for freezer.
Nope, I pulled the part from this. Fridge only.So the fridge thermo has two outs?
Prolly one for fridge, one for freezer.