Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread

Had to move the washing machine to get to the wet wall, and promptly broke the shitty solder job that the PO was using to hold the cold water valve into the plumbing.

Fortunately, I was able to salvage it and re-sweat the joint. It's not pretty, but it's holding back the water.

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Then, since the water was off, I took the opportunity to replace the valves in the box with quarter-turn ball valves.

I'm thinking I should have replaced the box too, but I don't want to cut that out of the wall, so I'll sand it, POR-15 it, and repaint.

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Had to move the washing machine to get to the wet wall, and promptly broke the shitty solder job that the PO was using to hold the cold water valve into the plumbing.

Fortunately, I was able to salvage it and re-sweat the joint. It's not pretty, but it's holding back the water.

View attachment 6484

Then, since the water was off, I took the opportunity to replace the valves in the box with quarter-turn ball valves.

I'm thinking I should have replaced the box too, but I don't want to cut that out of the wall, so I'll sand it, POR-15 it, and repaint.

View attachment 6483

That's the first time I've ever seen washer connections come in from the top down. Must be an Australia thing.
 
nah, it's a mexican thing. too bad I'm such shit at sweating copper.

Nah. It's holding the water back. Function beats form every time.






Should've got the pipes hotter further away from the seam. Solder goes to where the heat is.

That's if you want pretty. If it's holding the water back you did good. You're the only one who'll notice anyways.
 
Nah. It's holding the water back. Function beats form every time.






Should've got the pipes hotter further away from the seam. Solder goes to where the heat is.

That's if you want pretty. If it's holding the water back you did good. You're the only one who'll notice anyways.
I had to retry like 3 times, lol.

I won't notice after tomorrow when I patch it closed and repaint the box.
 
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Next time use a SharkBite deal.
Funny story, I went back to get a sharkbite 1/2" pipe to 1/2" female NPT to replace the nipple, but the leaks were all over that 90° too.

When I sweated the 90 off, it was easier to just put the nipple back on in my vise and sweat the whole thing back together.

Also, the first time I tried it under pressure after trying to fix the upper leaks, I found out I had ruined the sharkbite fitting by melting the plastic parts. I'm so talented.
 
I had to retry like 3 times, lol.

I won't notice after tomorrow when I patch it closed and repaint the box.

It's fine. If it ain't leaking now it ain't gonna. It's not like those pipes get moved around much to where it's gonna mechanically fail/physically crack anything.


Just solder naturally crawls/flows to the hottest place. You can hold a propane torch on copper pipe for a long time without melting the copper. As long as you got it hot enough to make a good bond and don't have a cold joint it'll last forever even if it ain't pretty.

The rest is just pomp and circumstance.

Underneath the globs you got there it's probably OK, hopefully.
 
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POR-15'd and self-etch primed (last night), with a white finish coat (this morning). I used my craftsman oscillating tool to get in there and sand out the rust. It was magical how effective it was.

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It's not the greatest, but it'll do for sitting behind the washing machine. Now I can pull out the dryer, which has the drain standpipe behind it, and cut a tee in to get it into the garage for the sink and water heater condensate line.

Probably replace the shitty outlet there, and repaint the wall around everything too, but that's a next week problem.
 
Constructed the frame and got the top into place on my condensate hood.

Kind of a pita bending a big sheet of FRP over the 15.25” diameter half circles I cut for the end caps.

Fan is in at Home Depot too.

Anyone put in rigid metal ducting before could offer any expert tips?