Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
at any rate, I got the BLTouch Z probe offset working well enough now to create a mighty fine dildo.
Two motors, two drivers, and Z axis auto align which is a Marlin 2.x feature.Is that a dual motor Z rod setup, or two Z rods with a belt drive at the top holding them together?
Hmm, I'll give it a try.You should do that actually. Use G29 V4 to make the printer spit out a map of the bed, then use that to level the build plate. One full turn of a M3 screw = 0.5mm up/down. Repeat a few times and it'll be flat.
I was doing almost that exact thing. I sent it to 0, then used my feeler gauges to figure out how much I needed to adjust the Z probe offset. I was about 0.2mm off.Nice. 0.03 is beautiful, and the printer will correct that out.
Z=0 should be zero nozzle/bed gap. I set the Z to 0.1 (G21 Z0.1) and slide a 0.1mm thickness gauge under the nozzle.
I just order the CCTree 235x235mm ones off amazon. They come 3 to a pack and each pack costs $13.The PEI sheet I use is McMaster-Carr 7576K13. Comes in a 1' x 2' rectangle, enough to do two print beds. I glue it down with 3M 468MP.
Oy vey, the heated bed seems to be haywire. The bed heats up and just stays at 110°C without being commanded.
What do I do?
Shorted heatbed MOSFET?
Power down the printer, disconnect the heat bed wiring from the control board. Grab a DMM, do a diode test from heatbed negative to ground. You should get open circuit (or 2V or whatever depending on how the circuit works) in one direction, 0.5-0.7V diode drop in the other direction. If you get 0.0V both ways, that's your problem... and your choice is either changing out the board, or replacing the MOSFET.
I can't find a picture of the board which doesn't have the heatsink on top of those MOSFETs (which does jack shit, as those packages are cooled through their thermal tab, not their face...) but I'm guessing they're in a TO-252/DPAK package. You can snip the leads, put a big blob of solder on the tab and get them loose without too much trouble. Then you can properly solder or even ghetto rig another one on.
I will take a picture in the morning. I have a pretty good one called, "electronic parts", where I will start looking.Try just twisting it off... it's probably just silicone, it should give way before anything else breaks.
Take a pic. I'll go looking up some part #s. What sort of electronics stores do you have in your area?