Ontopic The 3D printing thread

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Aww yeah, that was a most satisfactory dildo printed on the glass.

Next come the stepper motor vibration dampers. We'll see whether the dildo quality improves with that.
 
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Ordered the adapter thinger that @gee mentioned to keep me from soldering on my board, printing up the mount for the BLTouch now.

Got the vibration dampers on X and Y, and it quieted the shit way, way down. I can't really feasibly get it on the Z axis, unless I make a new mount for it, but it was already the quietest of the 3 (since it's a screw drive).
 
Interesting, the Sunlu PETG I have won't stick to the glass. Fortunately, I didn't take the buildtac surface of the bed, so I just pulled the glass off to get the probe mount printed.
 
"MK52" heat bed and spring steel plate have arrived for the printer.

I ordered a 24V bed and got a 12V bed, but that saves me the trouble of converting over my printer to 24V, I guess :/
 
I've finally got all the shit together for flashing the Melzi in the Creality to Marlin, just need to figure out whether I've got the female-female pin jacks sufficient to the task.

The BLtouch sensor is already mounted to the hot end, I just need to extend the wires. Internally, I have the "pin 27" header extender that'll let me do the job without soldering to the main board or cutting the display ribbon.

I just have to download the marlin firmware and figure out what I need in the .h file for uploading to the printer, then I'm off and running (assuming I have the connectors to do the job).
 
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gee said:
Grab Marlin 1.1.9 from github. Grab the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h from the example configurations folder to start.

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Creality/Ender-3

I'd compile the firmware as-is and blow it on the board, before you modify it to add BLtouch support.
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As it is, I have to arduinoISP the bootloader over beforehand, since the Melzi doesn't have a standard one that'll let me flash it with a USB cable, so vanilla as possible was going to be my first stop anyhow.
 
Jehannum said:
That's the one I have. I have very few complaints.
Specifically:
1) the bed is levelled on 4 screws instead of 3, which is problematic for getting consistent tension on the bed levelling springs.
2) Because of 1, there's often subtle deformities in the bed (which is aluminum and thin)
3) the Y axis (front to back) is on a single 2020 rail instead of, as I would prefer, 2 of them.
4) the Y and Z axes are on some fairly soft rollers, with an eccentric bolt that tensions one on each side, so it's easy to deform the roller in a way that a) makes it difficult for the steppers to do their jobs, and b) can permanently deform the rollers making the platform unstable.

All of those things are readily fixable, and the print quality is pretty nice.
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Hey @Jehannum, what are the base settings you're going with for this thing? I just got a horrible benchy out of this thing. Didn't help that the x axis just jumped about an inch to the left halfway through, but the results prior to that were shit.
 
There's pots on the motor drivers on the Creality control board, it's possible they never set the motor driver currents correctly and that caused your X shift. Too little current means too little torque.

and/or X axis is mechanically jamming for some reason.
 
Mr. Asa said:
Hey @Jehannum, what are the base settings you're going with for this thing? I just got a horrible benchy out of this thing. Didn't help that the x axis just jumped about an inch to the left halfway through, but the results prior to that were shit.
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So, one of the big shortcomings out of the box is making sure the X, Y and Z axes have properly torqued rollers. Make sure that they don't let the bed or the hot end wiggle against a fairly firm shake, but also aren't deforming the rollers against the extrusions. Also crank the bed levellers down so that they're about half-way to full tension on the springs, and then adjust the Z stop accordingly.

After you've got those adjustments made, then get the bed level.

For bed temperature, extruder temperature, feed rates, and movement rates, I use the stock settings in Cura for the Ender CR-10 (the big machine, it uses the same hardware) modified for a smaller bed (235x235).
 
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