Ontopic The new car-seching thread

I don't see the upside. I disturb it, and it's likely as not to just start pissing oil everywhere, and I don't want to deal with a leaky rear main rope seal.
The upside is the kids learn a couple things:

- How to inspect bearings, use plastigage and all that
- Don't fuck with things that work and make them not work, a lesson dad hasn't learned yet.
 
So, finally broke down the old engine from the truck. Looks like #1 spun a bearing and there may have been a coolant leak between #3&4

oGjftJ9.jpg



gU1GcCz.jpg



TqVILKe.jpg


Rv6yOeZ.jpg



3UrQNiT.jpg



EiZqjD7.jpg
 
  • Gravy
Reactions: Jehannum
What does that truck have on it like 400k miles or some such? It's about time something wore out.
 
That's a warhorse, man. Give it some oats
0-60 in 300 seconds. j/k I mean, along with all the wear there was probably a hideous loss of compression too. Which greatly speeds the death of any oil dumped in. I had a Ford 6 I ran about that long - good grief. My gf's father occasionally got stuck in traffic behind me and always gave me major shit about that station wagon. Few times he passed me and flipped me off - just for fun.
 
0-60 in 300 seconds. j/k I mean, along with all the wear there was probably a hideous loss of compression too. Which greatly speeds the death of any oil dumped in. I had a Ford 6 I ran about that long - good grief. My gf's father occasionally got stuck in traffic behind me and always gave me major shit about that station wagon. Few times he passed me and flipped me off - just for fun.
Had one in a truck like Asa's just manual instead of auto trans. Was a great truck. Those things just keep running and running like a tractor.
They used the same motors in some industrial stuff like big generators and pumps and shit.
 
  • Gravy
Reactions: wetwillie
Had one in a truck like Asa's just manual instead of auto trans. Was a great truck. Those things just keep running and running like a tractor.
They used the same motors in some industrial stuff like big generators and pumps and shit.
MIne was manual too, 4 on column. The thing looked like a hearse - solid black with cherry red vinyl interior. Our family and myself had a succession of those pricks. Nice basic motor.
 
  • Gravy
Reactions: HipHugHer
MAF's are f'n expensive. Seems a lot of systems don't have a default type thing the computer switches to if the sensor goes wonky either. Whole thing just runs like pure shit if it even runs at all.
 
MAF's are f'n expensive. Seems a lot of systems don't have a default type thing the computer switches to if the sensor goes wonky either. Whole thing just runs like pure shit if it even runs at all.
MAFs are really good at what they do, which is read a very narrow range of airflows that happen to coincide with the stock power range of a car.

If you start going outside that range, they become a bad solution in a hurry.

My Nissan is now speed-density tuned, which uses a fixed volumetric efficiency table that correlates with the manifold pressure and throttle position to produce a duty cycle for the fuel injectors. It's not so awesome at fine adjustments, but really good at supporting a whole load of different scenarios that are well outside of the stock power envelope.
 
  • Gravy
Reactions: HipHugHer
MAFs are really good at what they do, which is read a very narrow range of airflows that happen to coincide with the stock power range of a car.

If you start going outside that range, they become a bad solution in a hurry.

My Nissan is now speed-density tuned, which uses a fixed volumetric efficiency table that correlates with the manifold pressure and throttle position to produce a duty cycle for the fuel injectors. It's not so awesome at fine adjustments, but really good at supporting a whole load of different scenarios that are well outside of the stock power envelope.
When the MAF was going out on the Buick it would run normally, then out of the blue spit sputter and even die as she was trying to pull into traffic or take a left across 3 lanes or something. In other words it could be dangerous.
Throw a MIL code or whatever but there should be some default where the car is still operable if not at its best efficiency. It still knows how fast it's going, what gear it's in, where the throttle is, etc. That along with everything else "should" be enough.
Its not like it's going to cause engine damage or something to keep it running. Only things that should cause a shutdown is stuff like loss of oil pressure, severe overheating, etc. Things that can actually do real damage. Should be defaults for everything else, at least as far as a single sensor going haywire anyways.

Of course imo and ok boomer, etc. etc.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: wetwillie
When the MAF was going out on the Buick it would run normally, then out of the blue spit sputter and even die as she was trying to pull into traffic or take a left across 3 lanes or something. In other words it could be dangerous.
Throw a MIL code or whatever but there should be some default where the car is still operable if not at its best efficiency. It still knows how fast it's going, what gear it's in, where the throttle is, etc. That along with everything else "should" be enough.
Its not like it's going to cause engine damage or something to keep it running. Only things that should cause a shutdown is stuff like loss of oil pressure, severe overheating, etc. Things that can actually do real damage. Should be defaults for everything else, at least as far as a single sensor going haywire anyways.

Of course imo and ok boomer, etc. etc.
well, if your MAF is going tits up, you probably ought to replace it. Without it, all it's doing is guessing how much fuel to throw in based on the throttle position and RPM.
 
  • Gravy
Reactions: HipHugHer
well, if your MAF is going tits up, you probably ought to replace it. Without it, all it's doing is guessing how much fuel to throw in based on the throttle position and RPM.

I did replace it and it works good now.
I'm saying if it gets whacked out readings from that sensor and the usual adjustments don't remedy it right away it should trip to a default that'll work instead of crapping out in front of an 18-wheeler. Rpm and throttle position can do that, just trip to a default air flow based on those readings that fixed at some X barometric pressure that's good enough for now. Can't be that difficult to program that in, we can put a man on the moon after all.

Could even set the default as an average over history. Would work even better as long as it fucked up at some elevation similar to where you spend most your time. Can still light up the check engine light and fix it right after you get home in one piece or have your mechanic diagnose it, etc.