Ontopic The new car-seching thread

Enoes is quality shit @fly . If they have something that meets your subaru spec you're not "settling" by getting that instead of the dealer stuff.
 
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Lily, Jason, and @AppleTurkey's first engine pull.

Lily pulling the bolts out of the driveshaft.
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Engine out, on a wheel dolly in a tire swing.
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Such a cute lil thing:
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The obligatory:
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That's not just building a car, man that's building the kinda memories they're gonna remember when they're old.

Good Dad.

Ya why not pull the pan off. If only to clean it and give it a fresh gasket it's easier when it's out and one less spot in the driveway later on.
 
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I’d like some feedback please.

If you were a new driver (but an adult) and had $11K cash to spend on a used car, what would you look for?

Must be an automatic. Other pluses include a hatchback or room for some stuff, and maybe AWD.
When you find one you like, a prepurchase inspection (not just a state inspection) is absolutely worth the $100-200. Arrange with the seller to get it to a mechanic and you pay for the inspection. This will let you know what will need fixed, surface some possible deal breakers, give you a bit of bargaining power, and some measure of peace of mind.

AWD and hatch/wagon is pretty much Subaru or Volvo. Both are also very safe, which is especially good for a new driver. I got tboned in an Impreza hatch where the door moved in like 6-10" and there was a headlight in my face but I don't think I ever made contact with any solid surface during the event. Pretty roomy up front and I'm thin. AWD will increase maintenance costs over the life of the car, but not absurdly so. Supposedly Subaru has figured out the head gasket issues by now.

Pretty much anything Japanese will get you a good and trustworthy car.
 
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When you find one you like, a prepurchase inspection (not just a state inspection) is absolutely worth the $100-200. Arrange with the seller to get it to a mechanic and you pay for the inspection. This will let you know what will need fixed, surface some possible deal breakers, give you a bit of bargaining power, and some measure of peace of mind.

AWD and hatch/wagon is pretty much Subaru or Volvo. Both are also very safe, which is especially good for a new driver. I got tboned in an Impreza hatch where the door moved in like 6-10" and there was a headlight in my face but I don't think I ever made contact with any solid surface during the event. Pretty roomy up front and I'm thin. AWD will increase maintenance costs over the life of the car, but not absurdly so. Supposedly Subaru has figured out the head gasket issues by now.

Pretty much anything Japanese will get you a good and trustworthy car.
Or Korean these days. Hyundai's are great.
 
This pliers has become one of my favorites. It's made to grab big nuts in tight spaces.

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Shut up you pervs it's for working under sinks but it comes in handy for many other things as well.
 
aren't those oil filter pliers?
They work good for that, at least on the smaller filters like on typical 4 cyl. and v6's.
I think I found them at harbor freight, for replacing faucets. Larger nuts underneath where there's little wiggle room between the back of the sink basin and the back of the cabinet.
 
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They work good for that, at least on the smaller filters like on typical 4 cyl. and v6's.
I think I found them at harbor freight, for replacing faucets. Larger nuts underneath where there's little wiggle room between the back of the sink basin and the back of the cabinet.
They sell a very similar plier for the nut on the underside of a sink - I have one somewhere.

DAMN, these ChannelCock look pretty sweet. A little more girth capacity would have been nice. He said.
1616960110518.png

Specifications​

Overall length9 inches
Jaw length1.75 inches
Joint thickness0.43-inch
Handle span1.61 inches
Number of adjustments4
Jaw capacity1.75 inches minimum; 3.5 inches maximum
Weight0.51 pounds
 
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I dunno, if the bearings are done, I'm likely as not to just build an L20B and get the OHC and many, many more available parts from the Z cars and pickups.
I don't really see a downside for not checking the bearings.
A) its good and you have a freshly resealed bottom end
B) they are shot and you get a new, better engine.
 
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I don't really see a downside for not checking the bearings.
A) its good and you have a freshly resealed bottom end
B) they are shot and you get a new, better engine.
I don't see the upside. I disturb it, and it's likely as not to just start pissing oil everywhere, and I don't want to deal with a leaky rear main rope seal.