If anything I think steering and weight-shifting under acceleration would make FF less efficient, ceteris paribus.FF is more efficient than FR, normally, due to less drivetrain loss.
But there's no theoretical or practical reason I can think of why a FF car would be more efficient than a RR car.
Imagine my sad at my first winter in an FWD car.RWD is better than FWD though, because donuts.
We're not talking about your body pushing or pulling - that gets into body mechanics, etc.Pretty sure that's a no.
Ok, but I remain unconvinced that FF is inherently more efficient than RR.
This doesn't work for cars. Only for blocks.We're not talking about your body pushing or pulling - that gets into body mechanics, etc.
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I need to get a garden cart for the hitch on my Audi. Right now the only reason to have the ball on there is to keep people paying attention instead of running into my bumper.Putting a class III hitch on the van this week. For now its just for a bike rack, but itll be nice to have towing capability, albeit only up to 3500lbs
Cam setup, round 3: the Magnum Sharpie edition
View attachment 13787
Dialing in the wipe pattern, since the geometry of the valvetrain in the Datsun is adjustable on both the pivot side (via a threaded pivot and jam nut), and the valve spring side (via different thickness lash pads). The sharpie helps visualize how the cam hits the pad on the rocker arm - just have to install the arm, clearance it on the pivot side (.008" intake, .010" exhaust), then rotate the engine over with a breaker bar.
As the engine rotates, the cam lobe wipes the sharpie off. If there's a band on the front and back of the pad, then it's good to go. If not, I need to adjust the height of the lash pad on the top of the valve spring and retainer. I have a bunch of .150" and .175", but I think the ones that are on the lower lash pad are actually hitting the rim of the spring retainer rather than the lash pad, so I'm going to sand down the remaining .175" lash pads until I achieve the fit that I want.