Ontopic The new car-seching thread

The difference between just the garage light and two of the 45W LEDs

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The v6 that came in the 2000 Nissan frontier trucks. Any known, expected issues, oddities, problems, flaws? With good maintenance will they go the 300k+ the 4 cylinders do?

Same with the auto trans. The one in my 98 needed rebuild but I don't know how it was taken care of before I got it.

Thanks.
 
HipHugHer said:
The v6 that came in the 2000 Nissan frontier trucks. Any known, expected issues, oddities, problems, flaws? With good maintenance will they go the 300k+ the 4 cylinders do?

Same with the auto trans. The one in my 98 needed rebuild but I don't know how it was taken care of before I got it.

Thanks.
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The VG33E is a decent motor, and they'll last longer than the truck around them. It's an interference design, so if you don't have a history on timing belt changes, be prepared to dive in and do it.

When you do it, it's considered good practice to do: cam and crank oil seals, tensioner bearing, crank sprocket, water pump, cylinder head temp sensor, thermostat, drive belts, and all the radiator hoses. SOHC VGs are difficult to set the tensioner on correctly, so be prepared to do it a time or two before the tension on the belt feels right (you should be able to twist it 90° between the two cam sprockets with some difficulty). Crank sprockets are usually seized on, so have your cold chisel ready to whack it in twain, or your penetrating oil and heat, or whatever ready. Whatever you do, don't pry against the oil pump housing. You break that and you're gonna have a bad time.

The 4-speed auto is nothing to write home about, but behind a VG33 it's not seeing a whole hell of a lot of abuse, so just swap fluids every 60k and you're good to go.
 
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Jehannum said:
The VG33E is a decent motor, and they'll last longer than the truck around them. It's an interference design, so if you don't have a history on timing belt changes, be prepared to dive in and do it.

When you do it, it's considered good practice to do: cam and crank oil seals, tensioner bearing, crank sprocket, water pump, cylinder head temp sensor, thermostat, drive belts, and all the radiator hoses. SOHC VGs are difficult to set the tensioner on correctly, so be prepared to do it a time or two before the tension on the belt feels right (you should be able to twist it 90° between the two cam sprockets with some difficulty). Crank sprockets are usually seized on, so have your cold chisel ready to whack it in twain, or your penetrating oil and heat, or whatever ready. Whatever you do, don't pry against the oil pump housing. You break that and you're gonna have a bad time.

The 4-speed auto is nothing to write home about, but behind a VG33 it's not seeing a whole hell of a lot of abuse, so just swap fluids every 60k and you're good to go.
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Thanks for this. Lot of good info. I wouldn't consider it a negative then compared to the 4 cyl's that also lasted way longer than the truck around them.
All that stuff along with the timing is good policy. As in, if you're gonna dig in that far replace everything on the way out.
 
Any history of headaches with transfer case or other 4wd parts? Aside from CV joints or other normal wear parts.
 
Domon said:
what gas can ya'll use. Seems every fuckin one sucks.
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For what?
You can get ethanol-free if you want for small engine stuff.
Haven't had any problem with a vehicle I can attribute solely to the gas, assuming it's not old/gummed up.
 
Valve1138 said:
Good luck finding ethanol free around here.
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Some marinas or boat gas stations have it here.

I think I remember seeing it in small cans on the shelf at home depot or someplace like that by the weedeaters and things....for 10x pump price of course.
 
I don't have a nice metal Jerry can type. Or any metal ones really.
Got a bunch of plastic ones people either give away or they blow out or fall off the backs of trucks and trailers.
Most the safety type caps and spouts either break or are just plain shit to begin with. I use them for storage and just remove cap and pour through a funnel to use/rotate.

The good ones (still plastic) have a plain flexible spout, no safety stuff, and a vent on the top corner behind the handle with a little cap that snaps over it.

Those work good but for what one costs new a few more bucks get you a nice metal one.

Really, the plain, non-safety "feature" cap and spout is what makes a good gas can. The rest is just a container. Haven't had even an old plastic one bust a seam or leak from expansion/pressure.
It doesn't really freeze here. Don't know how they'd handle that.
 
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