Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread

[fly]

It seems part of the culprit for the 2.5 is the current monitoring circuitry. you dont really need that right, you just need the relay?

I've no idea. I certainly don't care about it from a stats POV, if that's what you mean.

 

[Domon]

you didnt do this did you fly?

Shelly 2.5 + ESPHome: potential fire hazard + fix

If you have flashed your Shelly 2.5 with ESPHome, make sure to configure GPIO16. Otherwise, the pin will be short-circuited and cause the unit to heat up significantly, creating a potential fire hazard!

savjee.be

 

[Domon]

Also... you've got it in a unit with a FAN. House the shelly where the fan blows on it.

 

[fly]

you didnt do this did you fly?

Shelly 2.5 + ESPHome: potential fire hazard + fix

If you have flashed your Shelly 2.5 with ESPHome, make sure to configure GPIO16. Otherwise, the pin will be short-circuited and cause the unit to heat up significantly, creating a potential fire hazard!

savjee.be

Nope. Pulled code from here:

Shelly 2.5

TOC

www.esphome-devices.com

 

[fly]

Also... you've got it in a unit with a FAN. House the shelly where the fan blows on it.

That would expose it to weather, and make the wiring to the light more difficult. I may just have to switch to a Shelly 1, and therefore skip fan control. I really only needed light control anyway, but figured why not do both. :|

edit: I wonder if its bad? Both switches are off and its still 158F right now.

 

[fly]

Here's the stats from the good one;


And the bad one:

 

[fly]

And according to the Tasmota folks, the limit should be set to 90C. That seems a bit crazy.

Shelly 2.5 - Tasmota

Documentation (Wiki) for Tasmota

tasmota.github.io

 

[Domon]

That would expose it to weather, and make the wiring to the light more difficult. I may just have to switch to a Shelly 1, and therefore skip fan control. I really only needed light control anyway, but figured why not do both. :|

edit: I wonder if its bad? Both switches are off and its still 158F right now.

one of the dudes in the thread was running with no load at 68F. It may be bad.

 

[Domon]

Here's the stats from the good one;
View attachment 13748

And the bad one:
View attachment 13749

the dynatrap pulls 400W between the fan and the light? Thats nuts.

edit: it pulls 380 when its OFF?

Or am i reading that wrong and thats some sort of cumulative energy use

 

[fly]

the dynatrap pulls 400W between the fan and the light? Thats nuts.

edit: it pulls 380 when its OFF?

Or am i reading that wrong and thats some sort of cumulative energy use

Power is showing what its drawing currently.

 

[Jehannum]

Power is showing what its drawing currently.

That's crazy power draw.

 

[fly]

That's crazy power draw.

13 watts?

 

[Domon]

Power is showing what its drawing currently.

you've got a dead short somewhere if that correct. You're using 30X the wattage that the device does going full bore

15 watts

They're then sucked in through a powerful fan and trapped inside the cage. Designed to run quietly, this device will not cause unneeded distractions. By using only 15 watts of electricity, it's an efficient and economical option. This Dynatrap Insect Trap will last a long time.

 

[Jehannum]

13 watts?

I was looking at the kW lines.

 

[Domon]

... i think we're reading the kW readings under "energy"

 

[fly]

... i think we're reading the kW readings under "energy"

Yes, look under power. 13w

 

[gee]

Yeah a dynatrap doesn't pull that much power. It's got like a 13W CFL and a 10W (if that) AC fan in it.

Something's fucked with your shelley thingamajigger.

 

[fly]

GODDAMMIT YOU IDIOTS

 

[Jehannum]

GODDAMMIT YOU IDIOTS

Look, if you're going to display power and energy, at least make them different units. If the "energy" is supposed to be over time, make it kWH.

 

[fly]

Look, if you're going to display power and energy, at least make them different units. If the "energy" is supposed to be over time, make it kWH.

Agreed. It took me an extra 3 seconds to figure it out.