Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread

gee

Blame It On The Gassa Nova
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To elaborate: pretty much every natural gas stove is available with a conversion kit (different set of jets) that'll let it run on propane. Propane has more BTU per volume than nat gas, so the jets are smaller.

On my old stove, I put a natural gas jet on the main burner that gave about 50% more flow than the propane jet that should have been there. Using that thing with a wok fucking ruled.

Right now we're using a radiant electric stove. Fuck I hate the thing. Couldn't be happier that this stove is landing in our hands.
 
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Domon

enjoys a good porkin'
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heeeey, they sent me the model # for the oven and it's a 30 inch! It'll drop right into the kitchen.

Kenmore Pro model # 79523. Electric oven, gas cooktop. They elaborated some more - it throws an ERR code from time to time, almost always in convection mode. Should be easy enough to diagnose.

So I need to run gas to it. Just gotta run about 6 feet of line from the back of the stove, through the back of 1 cupboard, out the side of the house. I'll probably put a 100# propane tank out there and get it filled myself at Costco or whatever. Rather than running the line myself, I'll get some random local heating company that knows what they're doing to hook it up for me.

Had a 420# tank at the old house for the gas stove (which was gas oven + gas cooktop!) and only refilled it every 3-4 years.
gas isnt that hard. I think most places by code you can even just run the yellow flex line for less than 20 feet which has pretty much no chance of leaking (still should check though after install).
 

Domon

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No - don't use 3/1, it's freaking petroleum based. Silicone based lube won't cause the outer seal to swell.
That is weird. Sucks - dem look like not-so-cheap valves. :(
I expect the ball seats are ptfe which should be immune to petroleum. but if i have silicone i will certainly use it. Gotta check what i have.
 

gee

Blame It On The Gassa Nova
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Made a dildo today to attach the dynatrap to the shed wall. Used the GPS Status app on my phone to measure the angle of the siding, then 5 minutes later in OpenSCAD, I had this dumb thing designed. <1 hour print in PETG.

So the trap seems to do fuck all during the day, but at night it's a mosquito murdering machine. Easily caught hundreds of mosquitos last night with it. Hopefully it'll decimate the population over time.
 
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Josh

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What are your panels details?

Some will accept tandem breakers so you can free up slots.

Like this for example.

Amazon product
One slot, two breakers.

The model usually indicates it. It'll be something like 200AMP3040

So 200 Amp, 30 slots, 40 breakers. So 10 slots take the tandems.
I could have used the heatpump yesterday. Fuck it was hot outside at 95F. Was even 75F outside at midnight which is some bullshit. It was around 80F in the house most of the night. Portable A/C just takes the edge off the heat and dehumidifies.

20200721_213902_medium.jpg20200721_214355_medium.jpg

I'm not quite sure what 28 + 30 go to. I'll have to pull the cover off and trace back the wiring I guess. That's not my writing, I guess the electrician didn't go to grammar school. I could lose the tub circuit since I never use the jetted tub; it takes like 20 minutes to fill the tub since my well only pulls 2.5gal/min, ain't nobody got time for that. Could also lose one of the receptacle and its breaker next to the panel since I don't have like 4 freezers like the previous owner had. Only one receptacle is required per NEC if I remember. So I guess that frees up 2 breaker spots for a 220V circuit needed for a heatpump.

For added clarity, I have a 200A service coming into the barn main panel, then underground into the house sub-panel, then underground to the garage sub-panel (that's the flat grey romex). None of the coax is used, possibly in the future if I decide to throw up an OTA HD Antenna. I will clean up the telco wiring once I install a backboard, network rack, run ethernet wiring throughout the house, and move the DSL modem next to the panel with the network equipment.
 

Domon

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I could have used the heatpump yesterday. Fuck it was hot outside at 95F. Was even 75F outside at midnight which is some bullshit. It was around 80F in the house most of the night. Portable A/C just takes the edge off the heat and dehumidifies.

View attachment 12176View attachment 12177

I'm not quite sure what 28 + 30 go to. I'll have to pull the cover off and trace back the wiring I guess. That's not my writing, I guess the electrician didn't go to grammar school. I could lose the tub circuit since I never use the jetted tub; it takes like 20 minutes to fill the tub since my well only pulls 2.5gal/min, ain't nobody got time for that. Could also lose one of the receptacle and its breaker next to the panel since I don't have like 4 freezers like the previous owner had. Only one receptacle is required per NEC if I remember. So I guess that frees up 2 breaker spots for a 220V circuit needed for a heatpump.

For added clarity, I have a 200A service coming into the barn main panel, then underground into the house sub-panel, then underground to the garage sub-panel (that's the flat grey romex). None of the coax is used, possibly in the future if I decide to throw up an OTA HD Antenna. I will clean up the telco wiring once I install a backboard, network rack, run ethernet wiring throughout the house, and move the DSL modem next to the panel with the network equipment.
I see they made the same dumbass mistake i did when running electric to the barn, thats a 12/3 UF cable and that shit aint enough when you account for voltage drop. I wired mine up as a MWBC to fake-double the capacity and that helped, but i shoulda run conduit and THHN individual 6ga wires.
 

Jehannum

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Thinking of adding a library wall to the master bedroom. We've run out of space for books in our 4 bookshelves (one in the master bedroom, one in the living room, 2 in the family room), so it's time to expand storage.

I've got about 12' of contiguous wall space. If I move the bed about 18" towards the windows and find a new spot for @AppleTurkey's full length mirror, I'll be able to do the thing with a row of drawers/cabinets on the bottom 18" and then do 3x banks of 4' wide, 7.5' tall, 12" deep bookshelf along the remainder of the wall.

It shares a wall with the stairwell, so I don't have a whole ton of outlets on the span, and the one that is there, is switched in one of the switches in the doorway bank, so that + some indirect shelf lighting = hipstery goodness.

My local lumberyard has decent Birch sheet goods, so I'll probably use those for the carcass, and then frame out the trim in Hickory.
 
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Domon

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so the spec sheet claims its treated with AQUA SEAL® copper oxide, which could mean one of four things all that involve copper

AQUA SEAL - CCA

  • CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) is used extensively in construction, industrial, and agriculture applications. AQUA SEAL - CCA preservatives meet American Wood Preservers Association (AWPA) Standard P5. Blue Ribbon posts and poles are pressure-treated in accordance with AWPA standard C4 and System Standard UC4A.
AQUA SEAL - CA

  • CA (Copper Azole) is used specifically in residential applications like decks, fences, and Blue Ribbon TruStakes®. AQUA SEAL - CA preservatives do not contain arsenic or chromium, and are fully compliant with all EPA, Environment Canada and Code of Good Practice requirements. AQUA SEAL - CA preservative meets AWPA Standard P5.
AQUA SEAL - ACQ

  • ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) is the most widely used non-arsenic, non-chromium water-based wood preservative in the world. Typical residential applications include decks, fences and Blue Ribbon TruStakes. AQUA SEAL - ACQ preservatives are fully compliant with EPA, Environment Canada, and Code of Good Practice requirements. AQUA SEAL - ACQ preservatives meet AWPA Standard P5.
AQUA SEAL - ACZA

  • ACZA (Ammoniacal Copper Zinc Arsenate) protects against termite and fungal decay. AQUA SEAL - ACZA preservatives consistently meet recognized standards of penetration and retention in otherwise difficult to treat species like Coastal Douglas fir. AQUA SEAL - ACZA preservatives meet AWPA Standard P5.


The SDS for the ply doesnt even mention copper at all, and definitely doesnt mention arsenic.

I think theyre being intentionally obtuse, which means its likely not CCA
 

Mr. Asa

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so the spec sheet claims its treated with AQUA SEAL® copper oxide, which could mean one of four things all that involve copper
:snip:
The SDS for the ply doesnt even mention copper at all, and definitely doesnt mention arsenic.

I think theyre being intentionally obtuse, which means its likely not CCA
Eh? Are you looking at the right MSDS?

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