gas isnt that hard. I think most places by code you can even just run the yellow flex line for less than 20 feet which has pretty much no chance of leaking (still should check though after install).heeeey, they sent me the model # for the oven and it's a 30 inch! It'll drop right into the kitchen.
Kenmore Pro model # 79523. Electric oven, gas cooktop. They elaborated some more - it throws an ERR code from time to time, almost always in convection mode. Should be easy enough to diagnose.
So I need to run gas to it. Just gotta run about 6 feet of line from the back of the stove, through the back of 1 cupboard, out the side of the house. I'll probably put a 100# propane tank out there and get it filled myself at Costco or whatever. Rather than running the line myself, I'll get some random local heating company that knows what they're doing to hook it up for me.
Had a 420# tank at the old house for the gas stove (which was gas oven + gas cooktop!) and only refilled it every 3-4 years.
I expect the ball seats are ptfe which should be immune to petroleum. but if i have silicone i will certainly use it. Gotta check what i have.No - don't use 3/1, it's freaking petroleum based. Silicone based lube won't cause the outer seal to swell.
That is weird. Sucks - dem look like not-so-cheap valves.
Made a dildo today to attach the dynatrap to the shed wall. Used the GPS Status app on my phone to measure the angle of the siding, then 5 minutes later in OpenSCAD, I had this dumb thing designed. <1 hour print in PETG.
I could have used the heatpump yesterday. Fuck it was hot outside at 95F. Was even 75F outside at midnight which is some bullshit. It was around 80F in the house most of the night. Portable A/C just takes the edge off the heat and dehumidifies.What are your panels details?
Some will accept tandem breakers so you can free up slots.
Like this for example.
One slot, two breakers.
The model usually indicates it. It'll be something like 200AMP3040
So 200 Amp, 30 slots, 40 breakers. So 10 slots take the tandems.
I see they made the same dumbass mistake i did when running electric to the barn, thats a 12/3 UF cable and that shit aint enough when you account for voltage drop. I wired mine up as a MWBC to fake-double the capacity and that helped, but i shoulda run conduit and THHN individual 6ga wires.I could have used the heatpump yesterday. Fuck it was hot outside at 95F. Was even 75F outside at midnight which is some bullshit. It was around 80F in the house most of the night. Portable A/C just takes the edge off the heat and dehumidifies.
View attachment 12176View attachment 12177
I'm not quite sure what 28 + 30 go to. I'll have to pull the cover off and trace back the wiring I guess. That's not my writing, I guess the electrician didn't go to grammar school. I could lose the tub circuit since I never use the jetted tub; it takes like 20 minutes to fill the tub since my well only pulls 2.5gal/min, ain't nobody got time for that. Could also lose one of the receptacle and its breaker next to the panel since I don't have like 4 freezers like the previous owner had. Only one receptacle is required per NEC if I remember. So I guess that frees up 2 breaker spots for a 220V circuit needed for a heatpump.
For added clarity, I have a 200A service coming into the barn main panel, then underground into the house sub-panel, then underground to the garage sub-panel (that's the flat grey romex). None of the coax is used, possibly in the future if I decide to throw up an OTA HD Antenna. I will clean up the telco wiring once I install a backboard, network rack, run ethernet wiring throughout the house, and move the DSL modem next to the panel with the network equipment.
Eh? Are you looking at the right MSDS?so the spec sheet claims its treated with AQUA SEAL® copper oxide, which could mean one of four things all that involve copper
The SDS for the ply doesnt even mention copper at all, and definitely doesnt mention arsenic.
I think theyre being intentionally obtuse, which means its likely not CCA