Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread

reviving an old sprinkler system ive got here that i half-assed in a buncha years ago.

Heads were set too high, so theyre all snapped off. Gotta replace em all

Got one zone running, replaced all the heads in the second but they wont pop up, so im expecting i might have a burst pipe in that zone.
 
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reviving an old sprinkler system ive got here that i half-assed in a buncha years ago.

Heads were set too high, so theyre all snapped off. Gotta replace em all

Got one zone running, replaced all the heads in the second but they wont pop up, so im expecting i might have a burst pipe in that zone.
If the heads snapped off you might have dirt blocking the lines.
 
@Domon do you have the adapter to hook your air compressor up to the lines?

It'd be easy to do a leak test with that.
i dont but i could easily make one. I'm not sure how itd handle my auto-drains though, they may not behave as nicely with air as they do with water.

Although I actually suspect its one of the autodrains that has failed and is staying open.

auto-drain = drains under each head that open up below 15psi, so when the water is off the pipes all auto drain so you dont have to blow it out
 
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how would it be easier to find the leak with air though?
The local gas company a few years back when they were installing new mains, they did a pressure test and blew out some connections.... right in front of the PUC (public utilities commission) building. Needless to say the company was using sub-contractors who weren't properly licensed or trained. Long work stoppage, investigations, fines, and repairs. Turns out like over 60% connections had to be re-done by the gas company as they couldn't prove they were installed properly due to the unlicensed contractors. Had to dig up the streets again to inspect and replace connections. lol
 
I assume he means see if there is one from the pressure drop.

Would be easier to find where one is with water I'd think.
It's hard either way with pipes 10-12" below the surface. I usually set a brick on all the heads in the zone to speed up the process. I just use the water.
Not sure why lines would blow from air compressor - I usually crank the big compressor to 100 lb.+ before blowing them out and it's been no issue.
 
It would let you know if there was a leak in general if all the ends were capped and the lines lost pressure. You’d see it on the gauge.

Same thing as a plumbing pressure test to check for leaks.
ah yeah, dont need that. Need to know where it is. Thankfully that run is only about 60 feet long, probably can hear it if i go along with my ear to the ground
 
Broke out the 'ol Power Fister to get the flywheel off...

200616691Resized20200615213925.jpg

And got the crank out!

So the rear oil seal failed on the engine, and it pissed most of its oil out of the rear seal, but thankfully the rear "bearing" (really, just the crankshaft running through a hole in the rear sump cover) seized onto the crank before the rest of the engine fucked up.

It took heat + the Power Fister to get the flywheel off... and I dropped it on the floor and broke one of the air blowy fins on the flywheel, gonna have to crack the other one off on the opposite side to balance it. The rear sump cover didn't want to come off the crank, ended up just saying fuck it and hammering the crank out with a brass hammer. I mushroomed the end of the crank doing this, and had to grind it flat enough with the angle grinder to finish getting the sump cover off, but it's fucking done.

Other bearings are in good shape, crank journals don't look too bad, piston moves freely in the bore without any bad grindy feelings. And I've got a 2nd rear sump cover in good shape on my parts engine.

Bringing the crank into work tomorrow for a bit of quality time in the machine shop, then I'm gonna throw a new rear seal and new oil into it and that's it. If this engine fails, I'll give in and buy a broken generator or snowblower or something for an engine.
 
New propane boiler installed. Very quiet. Has actual temperature reading. I like that it has an external, commonly found expansion tank like those found on oil boilers. So that is cheaper and easy to replace, vs the old unit which had a custom expansion tank. I sized the unit a little larger than needed in case I decide down the road to install a second zone in the basement. Not impressed with the fuck job transformer hanging from the receptacle. Plus I need to cut out the soaked now moldy drywall by the floor and replace. I fix that later.

I kept the old propane boiler. Going to part it out and sell on eBay. Saw sold auctions for various parts on the unit. Might make some money back. Plus I need to find out if there are any rebates for energy efficient appliance.

20200616_150935.jpg
 
New propane boiler installed. Very quiet. Has actual temperature reading. I like that it has an external, commonly found expansion tank like those found on oil boilers. So that is cheaper and easy to replace, vs the old unit which had a custom expansion tank. I sized the unit a little larger than needed in case I decide down the road to install a second zone in the basement. Not impressed with the fuck job transformer hanging from the receptacle. Plus I need to cut out the soaked now moldy drywall by the floor and replace. I fix that later.

I kept the old propane boiler. Going to part it out and sell on eBay. Saw sold auctions for various parts on the unit. Might make some money back. Plus I need to find out if there are any rebates for energy efficient appliance.

View attachment 11961
Nice call on the bigger tank. The transformer - yeah, they could have knocked out the next hole to the right, moved the shielded and the transformer would probably be having less of a lean to it but meh. Pretty clean install imo. Sucks about the drywall.