Advice The Home Improvement/Automation Thread
- Thread starter Duke
- Start date
Just use the calibration Offset feature of your programmable thermostat and game it so it reads 4-5 degrees warmer than reality(in winter). Then you can tell her "dammit woman, it's 75 degrees in here, we're not wasting money when I feel fine, put another layer on!" 
Just use the calibration Offset feature of your programmable thermostat and game it so it reads 4-5 degrees warmer than reality(in winter). Then you can tell her "dammit woman, it's 75 degrees in here, we're not wasting money when I feel fine, put another layer on!"
Perfect example of new tech being easily defeated by old tech.
She'll claim it's broken and call a repair guy who will sell her on $4000 worth of new stuff you will be paying for.
So I finally figured it out. Once I cracked open the blower again, I knew what had to be the problem - just don't know why I didn't think of it before. The UV light!
Once I disconnected that light, everything worked fine. Now the question is, does that thing really do much good?
Anyone??
Correct.
Actually, I just found out that you're supposed to replace it yearly. I've *never* replaced it. Could the bulb actually be causing issues?
I installed my last 2 HVAC systems - I only need a tard with a license to charge the AC.
I installed my own ductless heat pump in the dog shed, I'll probably put one in my new garage myself.I installed my last 2 HVAC systems - I only need a tard with a license to charge the AC.
Don't need certs here to work on R410A equipment.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Didn't bother with a full manifold gauge or anything. They're handy when you're debugging but not necessary if you're just installing.
Shit you need:
Vacuum pump (bought off kijiji) - came with 1/4" hoses.
4-in-1 tool with side port (Yellow Jacket 18985) - most expensive part of the endeavor, bought from a local HVAC shop. I highly suggest spending the money on a good tool here, because if it leaks, you're not gonna get the job done.
Micron gauge, attached to side port of gauge (bought off eBay)
1/4"M to 5/16"F valve adapter (hose to 4-in-1) and 1/4"F to 1/4"F adapter (micron gauge to 4-in-1)
Pipe cutting/flaring kit (Princess Auto)
Outdoor units come precharged with enough R410A for probably 6 or 10 feet of lines between the indoor units, if you've got a longer run then call a HVAC dude to add more.
There's a valve on the unit beside each of the two outside ports that holds in the refrigerant, and a 5/16" schrader service port that's on the hose side of the valves, 4-in-1 tool connects onto here.
Method:
- install the indoor/outdoor units, cut/flare and install the refrigerant lines going between the units.
- Connect 4-in-1 tool to service port on outdoor unit, pull the schrader valve out (keep in a safe/clean place!)
- Most people pressurize the outdoor lines at this point with nitrogen gas and use a pressure gauge and soapy water to check for leaks, saves a bunch of time but requires more equipment I'm too cheap to buy.
- Connect vacuum pump to 4-in-1 tool.
- Open valve on 4-in-1, pull vacuum until the micron gauge reads a low number. Close valve on 4-in-1. Reading on micron gauge will creep up as moisture evaporates and shit offgasses... or it'll creep up fast as hell if you have a leak.
- Repeat more vacuum pulls until the micron gauge holds steady for a half hour or so.
- Close 4-in-1 valve, use tool to reinstall schrader valve, disconnect the tool from the heat pump, and cap the service port.
- Pray to jesus you didn't fuck anything up, and open the refrigerant release valves.
- Power up the unit and hope for the best.
As of 9:30am this morning, I'm no longer homeless!
U-Haul day is Saturday. Ugh.
U-Haul day is Saturday. Ugh.
Valve1138
I like the AB in the GB
Enjoy having so many garage projects you can never park in it.