Ontopic The 3D printing thread

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Seems promising. I'd like a filament that more evenly shrank/expanded along the XYZ axes, but I'm also not in posession of an oven that'll sinter 316 stainless (1200°C) either.
Uneven shrink on xyz. Common phenomena when sintering is reducing particle space. Rockwell ends up a bit low compared to flat rolled. Still, awesome for many things, particularly with a little finish work.

Brick ceramic kilns are being given away, literally, if you look on craigs. The new hot kid is ceramic fiber board kilns and people are ditching their brick kilns. Like for my glass work, I can do 3 "cooks" a day using a fiber setup but just barely 2 in the brick setup. And fiber board only weighs 1/24-1/40 of brick, depending. Although you are fucked on annealing if the power goes out on fiber, no mass to save your ass.:(

*Old dental kilns are also often given away and go hot enough. But usually only an 8" square chamber or so.
 
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So, started printing something. Maybe 1/4 through it, while watching I saw something weird.

The bed itself rocks left to right, as if it is not firmly mounted to the rail, or that one of the wheel/bearing things was loose and jumping the rail.

Everything looks firm, and I'm still printing so I can't get in there to figure out what is actually going on. @Jehannum you run into anything similar with your Ender?
 
So, started printing something. Maybe 1/4 through it, while watching I saw something weird.

The bed itself rocks left to right, as if it is not firmly mounted to the rail, or that one of the wheel/bearing things was loose and jumping the rail.

Everything looks firm, and I'm still printing so I can't get in there to figure out what is actually going on. @Jehannum you run into anything similar with your Ender?
Nope. I'd say if it's rocking left to right you're either too slack on the bed springs, or too loose on the front to back axis tram wheels.
 
Springs are nicely compressed, and I dont think I'm slack on the wheels. I'll have to check that when it's done printing I guess.

I wonder if they make slide bearing kits for these like they do the deltas.
 
Springs are nicely compressed, and I dont think I'm slack on the wheels. I'll have to check that when it's done printing I guess.

I wonder if they make slide bearing kits for these like they do the deltas.
I've seen some, but the wheels aren't bad enough to justify it for me.

Hopefully the eccentric nut is what's out of whack.
 
So, I think this may be half a dozen little things compounding.

I installed a cable guard/guide, this made the back left even tighter than it was and on that corner I probably need to go back to one of the original springs it had instead of the ones Jehannum sent me. That's two things
The cables interfere with each other no matter how I route them and I think I need to disassemble major components and make sure the harness isnt twisted up and FUBAR.
With that corner being tighter, when I leveled the bed it might've warped the heated portion of the bed a bit.
The glass itself has never seemed to be level, and may be very lightly warped/wavy.

Gotta finish a couple prints for a project, but they arent dimensionally critical.
 
I'm getting real irritated at how few of my hobbies are supported by any sort of local market. Googled where to find filament, went to visit them and found that one of them was out of business and the next four didn't carry shit.
I've never printed shit filament, what are good settings for extrusion and temperature?
 
So how much would it cost to have someone (one of you?) design and print me some of these?


Except I need them about 6" tall. I like the idea of get some round stickers of famous people (I think that was @Mr. Asa's idea?) and sticking them to these taps.

(I haven't run any of this past @APRIL, but at least they aren't veiny dicks.)
 
Half hour (maybe an hour if you want fancy shit) in Solidworks. That'll be the expensive part. Last time I freelanced design stuff I was at $40/hr but I was gouging him cause it was shady.

Probably $2-4 worth of filament per?

If you leave them on the taps you'd need to get a filament that isnt bothered by the Florida heat.
 
I've printed a few tap handles. If you want durable, go with ABS (best for the job, but a bit of a bitch to print) or PETG. Print them on their back for the best mechanical strength in that shape.

Don't bother trying to print the threads, just print an undersized hole and drill/tap the hole. Make sure you use enough top/bottom layers and perimeters to account for the thread you'll be cutting out. You'll probably want to have thick walls and lots of infill anyway, to maximize the resilience to drunk people.