Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Definitely make double sure you're getting the 24V version.I need to verify this thing is 24V capable. Fairly sure it is, but always better to check before buying
Definitely make double sure you're getting the 24V version.I need to verify this thing is 24V capable. Fairly sure it is, but always better to check before buying
Exact one I've got in the cart right now
I didn't bother.I haven't annealed any prints yet. Think I should take that step with the hot end mounts?
But the E3D mounts way up the body away from the heatbreak.I'd use PETG for a hotend mount. Biggest issue there with PLA is it cold flows, increasingly at higher temperatures, so if you're using it as a clamp or whatever to hold something under pressure it'll eventually loosen.
Annealing works great for PLA to make it tougher, but it throws off the dimensions.
PETG doesn't cold flow, it's dimensionally stable and doesn't shrink much when it cures... for jobs like this, embrace PETG!
I just went with the suggestions here: http://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.htmlBut the E3D mounts way up the body away from the heatbreak.
You got any protips for Taulman 910? I'm doing a set of these for the guy who sent me his broken one this weekend, and I picked up a spool of the Taulman because its properties looked damn good for the use case.
Fortunately, I live where it's about 2% humidity, so I don't have much trouble with absorbed water. Thanks for the tips!I just went with the suggestions here: http://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html
And make sure you dry it out really well before you use it, because it absorbs water to the point where your printer will hiss and pop when it prints.
Also, print slow (say, 30mm/s or less) - since you're printing small gears you might want to go even slower.
I have Blender, but I'm having trouble making it work for me. I'm not a visual learner/coder, and deep in my heart of hearts, I believe that this whole "mouse clicking" thing is a fad that will eventually go away.Assuming you dont know/have Blender or MeshMixer or something to edit STLs, simplest way would be to make a new panel with your team name, position it so that it overlaid theirs.
Alternatively, I could import that STL into Solidworks and do the edits.
quick #hack:
import() it into OpenSCAD
make a cube and translate it around until you've got the text filled in.
difference out some new text().
I've never fucked with blender, I just know it's one of the more common onesI have Blender, but I'm having trouble making it work for me. I'm not a visual learner/coder, and deep in my heart of hearts, I believe that this whole "mouse clicking" thing is a fad that will eventually go away.
I'll click harder, I guess, unless you've got some tips on selecting and editing things from within blender
I actually bought better colors. They've got a drab gray and brown. I got silver and wood. Way classier, and also proves I'm willing to spend $40+ on dumb jokes.Better idea: if you've got the exact same colors of plastic, reprint it with 'borg' instead of 'thor' and just quitely switch out their hammer, see how long it takes them to notice.