@Jehannum when you get a chance, can you lay out all the changes you've made? I need a starting point.
0) adjust the rollers so that they're making good contact on the extrusions. Not so much that they deform the rollers, but enough that the bed doesn't wiggle when you give it a tug.
1) make sure the Z rod isn't binding. I used
this.
2) tension the belts. there should be enough slack that you could deflect it a few mm, but not so much that it's going to jump when the motor moves the tram it's attached to.
3) get good at leveling the bed. G0 and G1 will be your friend here, unless you just disable the stepper motors and move it around by hand. Adjust each corner until it lightly holds a sheet of A4 paper between the nozzle and the bed, then go back through and do it again.
4) dump the fake buildtac bed for a real one. I like
these
5) stiffer bed springs. To make the stock springs work for the time being, take the Z end stop down a few millimeters.
6) read the matterhackers guides to successfully printing the material you're using.
- I can't get PETG to let go of the buildtac without wrecking the bed sticker, and I can't get it to stick to the glass bed at all below about 80°C bed temps, but I get a happy medium of adhesion with blue painters tape and I don't have to go through the grossness of hairspray or glue stick.
- PLA prints to anything and everything. Super forgiving, but it also shrinks significantly after print.
- none of them like to have much moisture around. That's not an issue for me, but it might be an issue for you. Try preheating the filament in the oven on low, and keep it in a sealed bag with some desiccant when you're not using it.
The non-performance mods I did make it quieter, but don't do much else. The rubber bushes will quiet the X and Y axes, but there's no way to get it into the Z motor. I also made a tray to hold the tools and memory cards between the screen and the Y extrusion.
I'm having great luck with the Sunlu PETG and the Hatchbox PLA.