Ontopic The 3D printing thread
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Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Of course I can't. I don't know shit.
My understanding is that you'll have to do ZERO out of the box Z level adjustments, including when switching out plates. None of that matters anymore. Simplified filament switching looks awesome. As well as being able to quickly switch out print nozzles. Two thumbscrews to slide in a .6 nozzle is fucking nice.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
The Ultimaker 3 we've got at work taps the nozzle off the build surface to do autoleveling / fine homing, and it makes for perfect first layers all the time. But it's a $4500 printer.
It's really the best way to do things, because you're directly measuring the mechanical Z=0 at the exact XY offset of the print head.
It's really the best way to do things, because you're directly measuring the mechanical Z=0 at the exact XY offset of the print head.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
This is what I was expecting from the MK4.
But I guess bamboo labs is going to claim the king-daddy-rabbit title for this generation of 3D printing.
But I guess bamboo labs is going to claim the king-daddy-rabbit title for this generation of 3D printing.
So I bought another 3D printer. Seller's photo.
It's a "fab@home" 3D printer, a sort-of competitor to Reprap that squirts stuff out of syringes instead of extruding melted plastic. They gave up on the project ages ago because Reprap won, pretty much.
Here's a MIT presentation on the thing: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/961.09/03.09/[email protected]
The electronics are an old undocumented pile of shit, so I'm gonna junk them and throw on a Marlin capable control board instead - I've got a 5 axis RAMPS type board somewhere in my parts stash that'll do the job nicely. The thing is a pretty simple cartesian machine - gantry moves in XY, bed moves in Z, all driven by lead screw motors that are waaaaay more precise than they need to be and definitely hinder how fast the thing can run.
Once I get that all set up, the workflow should be the same as any other 3D printer - each axis including the extruder has a certain steps/mm travel, the filament diameter is the syringe ID, and the nozzle diameter is whatever tip I throw on the end of the syringe. If I load that stuff into PrusaSlicer or Cura or whatever, everything should just work ideally.
Plan is to do stupid shit like load up one syringe with PB and one with Nutella, and throw a slice of toast in there.
It's a "fab@home" 3D printer, a sort-of competitor to Reprap that squirts stuff out of syringes instead of extruding melted plastic. They gave up on the project ages ago because Reprap won, pretty much.
Here's a MIT presentation on the thing: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/961.09/03.09/[email protected]
The electronics are an old undocumented pile of shit, so I'm gonna junk them and throw on a Marlin capable control board instead - I've got a 5 axis RAMPS type board somewhere in my parts stash that'll do the job nicely. The thing is a pretty simple cartesian machine - gantry moves in XY, bed moves in Z, all driven by lead screw motors that are waaaaay more precise than they need to be and definitely hinder how fast the thing can run.
Once I get that all set up, the workflow should be the same as any other 3D printer - each axis including the extruder has a certain steps/mm travel, the filament diameter is the syringe ID, and the nozzle diameter is whatever tip I throw on the end of the syringe. If I load that stuff into PrusaSlicer or Cura or whatever, everything should just work ideally.
Plan is to do stupid shit like load up one syringe with PB and one with Nutella, and throw a slice of toast in there.
Man my 3d printer is so fucking handy. Needed a quick disposable putty knife. $4 on Amazon about the same at HD. I never left the house and got one for pennies.
So I need a quick strength check from you guys...
I have some of those plastic 5-tier shelves in my laundry room with my home server at the top. For some reason, this shelving kit didn't come with feet, so the bottom shelf just sits on the floor. I don't like that. So I printed up some feet to slide into it. I printed it in PETG with a perimeter of 6, which I assume means the perimeters are 2.4mm.
If everything on there is 100 pounds (probably not, but I feel like the server is at least 50), should that hold? I kinda need to be sure, because if the server takes a tumble things aren't going to go well.
I have some of those plastic 5-tier shelves in my laundry room with my home server at the top. For some reason, this shelving kit didn't come with feet, so the bottom shelf just sits on the floor. I don't like that. So I printed up some feet to slide into it. I printed it in PETG with a perimeter of 6, which I assume means the perimeters are 2.4mm.
If everything on there is 100 pounds (probably not, but I feel like the server is at least 50), should that hold? I kinda need to be sure, because if the server takes a tumble things aren't going to go well.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
OSHA would like a word about your shelf loading, but I don't see any issue with PETG feet in that instance. I'd just make sure they're plenty big (think squares, 5-8cm on a side), with 6 walls and a good deal of infill (60%+).
I had a pool cart where I replaced the bushing that held the casters with PETG after the originals disintegrated, and it held at least that much, on four 1 inch bushes with half inch stems coming in from the casters.
They extend about 2-3" below the shelfi was fine with all these until you said you had a server on it
How tall are these feet? Im picturing like 1 inch, but the way you describe it I think im probably wrong
@ OSHA. Feet slide into the tubes, I don't have a choice on size. From what I've read online, infill has no effect on compressive strength, only perimeter.