Ontopic The 3D printing thread

Helping a friend to make a tone wheel for his wheel speed sensors.
tone_wheel.png

The holes are for mounting magnets that will trigger a hall effect sensor. The whole thing's parameterized, so the dimensions are purely fictional.

Gonna figure out what kind of retention strategy he wants, but a grub screw seems likely (so captive nut on the back facing the inner barrel of the rotor, then screw through it snugged up to the inside of the brake rotor.

The application is a '73 240Z with an 800HP Toyota 2JZGTE.
 
So this is gonna be a metal disc attached to the brake rotor? I'd worry that'll get hot enough to bring the magnets above their curie temperature, after which they won't be magnets anymore. And your metal's gonna have to be nonmagnetic or it'll shunt the magnets unless they protrude a fair bit.

I'd aim for a passive tonewheel instead of embedding magnets into something. Maybe just cut a bunch of slots in the disc.
 
gee said:
So this is gonna be a metal disc attached to the brake rotor? I'd worry that'll get hot enough to bring the magnets above their curie temperature, after which they won't be magnets anymore. And your metal's gonna have to be nonmagnetic or it'll shunt the magnets unless they protrude a fair bit.

I'd aim for a passive tonewheel instead of embedding magnets into something. Maybe just cut a bunch of slots in the disc.
Click to expand...
It's attached to the hub, not the rotor. Not as much heat to worry about.
 
Jehannum said:
Helping a friend to make a tone wheel for his wheel speed sensors.
View attachment 13892

The holes are for mounting magnets that will trigger a hall effect sensor. The whole thing's parameterized, so the dimensions are purely fictional.

Gonna figure out what kind of retention strategy he wants, but a grub screw seems likely (so captive nut on the back facing the inner barrel of the rotor, then screw through it snugged up to the inside of the brake rotor.

The application is a '73 240Z with an 800HP Toyota 2JZGTE.
Click to expand...

This guy does crazy shit with 3D printed insturments, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEHZvpVNGrVmb4i-39O3s4w
 
Today on dildo making, I'm learning how to get ABS to adhere to my bed.

Tried (unsuccessfully):
* PVA on glass
* buildtak
* plain glass

Currently trying:
* hairspray on glass

I'd like to jack the bed temperature up a little more, but 105°C is already on the raggedy edge of what the printer's capable of.

Keep getting lifting during the print, that the hot-end snags on and causes a layer shift.

Still working on this particular dildo:
tone_wheel_dildo.png
 
Well, I'm currently getting pretty good looking first layer with about .10 mm decreased distance between the nozzle and the bed, with some dry hairspray. We'll see how it does on down the line, but I'd rather not get all messy with ABS slurry yet. Probably kapton tape next.
 
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