Ontopic The 3D printing thread

Fairly sure. I do get a clicking sound which i have learned to associate with the toothed hob slipping on the filament. In the past that has been due to clogs, but I have good solid flow.
The original 415 was through gcode and pronterface. Updating to 426 was gcode inserted in the machine settings in cura.
Clicking/jumping mean that you either don't have enough tension on the filament via the toothed extruder gear or you've got a clog somewhere down the line.
 
Or not enough current on the extruder motor, and it's skipping steps.

Or too much load on the motor, possibly caused by a clog.
 
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How can I check current to the extruder? Fairly sure that I don't have a clog and the tension is about as high as it can be.
There should be a pot on the board for you to adjust vref.

However, what speed are you printing at? What temperature? Both of those being out of whack can result in snap-backs in the extruder.

Here's the procedure:
 
PLA that seems to like 215, went with the recommended print speed of 50mm/s
Going to try going with fatter layers as well to see if I'm trying for too tight of a print with something not setup for it.
 
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Project "what the fuck am I doing"

Free Monoprice Select Mini v2 that I've been sitting on with a fried control board and display. I'm rebuilding it with shit I've got around the house.

Changes:
- replacing the fried control board with an old 8 bit board I have around. Putting an old character LCD on the front panel.
- replacing the garbage stock Z stepper/lead screw with a NEMA stepper and 8mm lead screw. The old Z motor moves painfully slow on these printers, to the point of retractions taking half a second and causing blobs.
- putting crappy BMG clone in place of the stock extruder.
- replacing E3D clone hotend with a better E3D clone/throat/block/sock. Putting a new mount on that does part cooling with a blower fan.
- putting in proper belts and belt tensioning and stuff.
- probably gonna take the old 240W power supply that came with my old Anet, and hang it off the back in place of the fried wall adapter.
 
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