Ontopic The 3D printing thread

Mr. Asa

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Nothing annoys me more than when suppliers change their filament specs.

Got another spool of PETG, tried the Amazon Basic as it got good reviews. Everything online said 235-240 nozzle temp, even the settings on the side of the spool suggested 220-240. Try it out, have a few issues at 240 (not really delamination, but it wanted to,) nothing survivable at 235, go to 250 and it starts churning out gorgeous looking surfaces.

Still, it does look pretty.
 

Domon

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Nothing annoys me more than when suppliers change their filament specs.

Got another spool of PETG, tried the Amazon Basic as it got good reviews. Everything online said 235-240 nozzle temp, even the settings on the side of the spool suggested 220-240. Try it out, have a few issues at 240 (not really delamination, but it wanted to,) nothing survivable at 235, go to 250 and it starts churning out gorgeous looking surfaces.

Still, it does look pretty.
indeed. I wonder if their supplier changed it on em and they dont do regular assays.
 

gee

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Borrow a thermistor probe from your work and jam it down the throat of your printer, preheat the printer and see what the nozzle temp actually is - could be lower than it should be when it's heated up, but still measure OK at room temperature if the thermistor beta doesn't match the firmware.
 

gee

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Made a Misumi order, and cashed in on AliExpress' anniversary sale a couple days ago. My MakerBot clone is officially being converted into a Hypercube Evolution.

Using bearings and rods and motors from the old printer, framing and new Y rods from Misumi.

Trianglelab E3D clone, a pair of their Bondtech extruder clones plus their Prometheus system clone Y splitter for dual extrusion. Prusa MK52 magnetic heatbed clone - I haven't looked back since putting that bed on my i3 clone.

Still figuring out electronics since I have to drive 6 motors.
 
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Jehannum

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Made a Misumi order, and cashed in on AliExpress' anniversary sale a couple days ago. My MakerBot clone is officially being converted into a Hypercube Evolution.

Using bearings and rods and motors from the old printer, framing and new Y rods from Misumi.

Trianglelab E3D clone, a pair of their Bondtech extruder clones plus their Prometheus system clone Y splitter for dual extrusion. Prusa MK52 magnetic heatbed clone - I haven't looked back since putting that bed on my i3 clone.

Still figuring out electronics since I have to drive 6 motors.
I just slapped a genuine 24V E3D into my hooptie of doom.

Still waiting on the Paquette engineering upgrade board.
 

HipHugHer

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I love the piss out of reading this thread even though I understand none of it.

“Hooptie of doom” indeed. LOL
I understand the basic concept of what they're doing and can understand some of the mechanical problems they talk about but the rest is much like the computer thread which I also read but cannot contribute anything useful to.
 
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HipHugHer

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I have a work acquaintance who has a small shop that has one of these things in his office he uses to print little plastic parts that are old, hard to source, just plain out of production, or some custom thing to fit some thing to some other thing.

I've been there a couple times while this thing was running and it was mesmerizing. When you see one running you can see how a little temperature difference or vibration or binding along a movement or whatever can really make things go from great to unusable.

Think of it as more of an instrument than a machine. Much more sensitive and close tolerance.
 
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HipHugHer

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Not a bad analogy, actually.

The cheapass ones are available from China via eBay and they suck.
The best ones are designed in America and cost a mint.
Ya, without even knowing anything highly technical about what's going on, anybody who's a bit mechanically inclined could watch this thing operate and notice little things all over it where a little cheaping out on material, fastening, stability, flex, ability to stop/start/change direction, maintain the right temp and flow, etc. could easily pile up and turn a well crafted part into a useless blob.

And that's before any software glitches or programming oopsies, etc. even come into play.
 

gee

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I love the piss out of reading this thread even though I understand none of it.

“Hooptie of doom” indeed. LOL
Best way to describe a 3D printer is it's a robotic glue gun that moves around squirting molten plastic on top of other plastic to build shit. Instead of glue sticks it takes a continuous plastic thread called "filament", that kinda looks like weed whacker line.

There's different ways of building printers, different kinds of plastic filament you can use that have different characteristics etc... but that's just details.
 
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Immigrant

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Best way to describe a 3D printer is it's a robotic glue gun that moves around squirting molten plastic on top of other plastic to build shit. Instead of glue sticks it takes a continuous plastic thread called "filament", that kinda looks like weed whacker line.

There's different ways of building printers, different kinds of plastic filament you can use that have different characteristics etc... but that's just details.
It’s the details that make my head spin and eyes glaze over. The glue gun part I understand and thanks, because I’ve never heard it described that way before.
 
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Jehannum

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Helping the Z community. The blend doors for our HVAC is controlled by a small motor with an itty-bitty gear train. There's one gear in particular that likes to break, so I'm seeing if I can make new geartrain dildos with herringbone spurs, to more stably handle the strain.

The real problem is that a lot of these guys have rusty actuator arms inside that stick, but to get the geartrain out, you have to free the stuck arms anyway, so it's not likely that once these things are busted, they'll get reassembled badly.
 
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gee

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We got a spool of Taulman 910 nylon at work for the ultimaker.

Holy fuck it's great. Prints better than the nylon that Ultimaker sells, doesn't shrink or warp anywhere near as badly, and it's tough as fuck.
 
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