Thread Nixie tube clocks!
- Thread starter gee
- Start date
Home. Here's the deal:
- Prebuilt/tested clocks are $100 CAD.
- Kits are $80 CAD, if you want to solder a clock together yourself.
- Shipping for 1 clock to the US, either a kit or a prebuild, is $10 CAD.
- I take paypal, PM me for details.
I've got three clocks currently built/tested, all with gray insulators. I've also got the 'malformed' clock with black insulators which I'm selling for $80, but I'll probably just rebuild that into a nicer looking clock since I'm not really happy with it.
- Prebuilt/tested clocks are $100 CAD.
- Kits are $80 CAD, if you want to solder a clock together yourself.
- Shipping for 1 clock to the US, either a kit or a prebuild, is $10 CAD.
- I take paypal, PM me for details.
I've got three clocks currently built/tested, all with gray insulators. I've also got the 'malformed' clock with black insulators which I'm selling for $80, but I'll probably just rebuild that into a nicer looking clock since I'm not really happy with it.
hmm I do have a dremel and a nearby hardware store.
I suppose I could make something outta wood.
I'll set aside some cash next paycheck for this.
I suppose I could make something outta wood.
I'll set aside some cash next paycheck for this.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Hey gee,
I have some Ikea LED lights that the drivers seem to have crapped out on. Any clue what I need to check to figure out what's going wrong?
I have some Ikea LED lights that the drivers seem to have crapped out on. Any clue what I need to check to figure out what's going wrong?
You probably lost the ballast. replacing the lights might be more cost effective than the ballast. give a visual once over first - a lot of the times just looking at it will tell you the ballast kicked the bucket. Also check the point-to-point wire, make sure no copper is showing, nothing is frayed, etc.
post up some pictures and helping will be easier.
Last edited:
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
I'll have to pull the entertainment center away from the wall, then take everything apart. I'll do so after finals prolly.
The lights are fine, I've tried another plug and everything works, so it's somewhere between the wall and the distribution block.
Running http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10192107/ at the top of the entertainment center, and off of a spare distro block I picked up in the as-is section I'm running http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/ as backlighting for the TV
Basically running the two off of one central distro block so I can use only one switch.
I'd prefer to not have to buy another driver as I'd have to get the lights as well, and the whole kit is something like $50 or so.
Is this what you're calling everything?
You said you tried a new plug and it worked. That's your solution. get a new plug. Or do you mean plug as the wire that plugs into the ballast, like a regular cord? Replace the cord if that's the case. Whatever you replaced and it then worked, that's what you need a new one of, regardless of naming issues.
I don't know the specifics as to what kinda power that puts out, but running two sets of lights off of one ballast could shorten the life span. its not like it is super high quality stuff.
Last edited:
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Actually, as of now I'm not sure which I was calling which.
Regardless, the plug is designed to be daisy chained off of a 120v source, and then it sends the correct voltage to the LEDs
Regardless, the plug is designed to be daisy chained off of a 120v source, and then it sends the correct voltage to the LEDs
From what I can gather, using the terminology of the picture above:
The "plug" is a simple AC/DC adapter, takes in 120V/240V and puts out 12 volts or something like that.
The "distro blocks" actually has some smarts in it. There's plenty of people online modding them.
If changing the "plug" (AC adapter) fixes it, it's probably something in the "distro block" - and you'll have to pop it open, grab a DMM and start measuring stuff.
The "plug" is a simple AC/DC adapter, takes in 120V/240V and puts out 12 volts or something like that.
The "distro blocks" actually has some smarts in it. There's plenty of people online modding them.
If changing the "plug" (AC adapter) fixes it, it's probably something in the "distro block" - and you'll have to pop it open, grab a DMM and start measuring stuff.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Hey electro-dudes
What is the base of this made of? I would think something ferrous?
the base?
Thats just copper wire and a neodymium magnet
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Still got em?Apologies if trying to flog stuff on the forum offends anyone. I have a bunch of these that I'm trying to get rid of:
Nixie tube clocks. I designed these back in '06 and sold them a couple of times on genmay. I recently came across a box of leftover nixie tubes, and decided to update the clock design and make a bunch more of them to use up the tubes.
I'm selling them for $80 as a kit of parts to solder together yourself, and $100 for a fully built and tested clock. At the $80 price I make about $5, I'm doing these for fun more than anything.
Domon's also gonna be making wooden cases for them when his hand heals up.
Anyone interested?
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Actually, I'm glad someone else necro-bumped this.
@gee, I got given a '60s era fish finder, the instruction manual has the circuit diagram of the whole setup. One of the problems is that it's missing one of the transducers that tells you what the depth is. I have one, but it is supposed to have a spare. I'm wondering if you might be able to help me figure out how to get another one without cranking out $60 for another fishfinder of similar vintage.
Figured you might be interested in the circuitry anyways.
@gee, I got given a '60s era fish finder, the instruction manual has the circuit diagram of the whole setup. One of the problems is that it's missing one of the transducers that tells you what the depth is. I have one, but it is supposed to have a spare. I'm wondering if you might be able to help me figure out how to get another one without cranking out $60 for another fishfinder of similar vintage.
Figured you might be interested in the circuitry anyways.