I always read it even though I don't know what they are talking about half the time. Men building and fixing things is awesome.My eyes glazed over some time ago in this thread.
I always read it even though I don't know what they are talking about half the time. Men building and fixing things is awesome.My eyes glazed over some time ago in this thread.
Nah, just wouldn't have it on while forming the threads. Why would I make threads if I wasn't going to use them?You are putting it in without the bracket for that extra length? Possible issue right there. The bracket locates it in relation to the other bolt and the clutch fork. Don't do that and you might easily cock it.
Also, pretty easy to check how many extra threads you might get on it.
lolDon't listen to these booksmart/streetdumb types
The bracket is like 1/2" thick, so I'm using the extra threads with it off for alignment. That way I won't bottom out the bolt with epoxy either. I don't have a shop to do that fab shit at.You are misunderstanding something.
A) make a pseudo-bracket to keep the exact alignment of the bracket when you form the threads.
B) use the bracket and a longer bolt to form the threads.
The bracket is like 1/2" thick, so I'm using the extra threads with it off for alignment. That way I won't bottom out the bolt with epoxy either. I don't have a shop to do that fab shit at.
Anything I could fab up with what I have available would have similar if not greater error. It's a fucking stock 1.6L Miata clutch and the cylinder is tiny as hell. It's a $20 "AutoZone special" cylinder and if it needs replaced eventually then fine and I'll "do it right" with OEM parts and all.
If the clutch slave cylinder is fine held in place with 1 bolt, wouldn't you think Mazda would have held it in with only one bolt to begin with?According to someone on the Internet, he's seen fine operating clutches with only one bolt, I don't think this will ever encounter the forces necessary to break it.
I looked at NA Miata clutch slaves on the internet and am declaring that you're just a lazy fucker if you "can't" get a tap and helicoil in there.Anything I could fab up with what I have available would have similar if not greater error. It's a fucking stock 1.6L Miata clutch and the cylinder is tiny as hell. It's a $20 "AutoZone special" cylinder and if it needs replaced eventually then fine and I'll "do it right" with OEM parts and all.
And have minimum thread engagement? Why not both?So don't fab anything. You can't go spend $0.30 on a longer bolt?
Not my plan.If the clutch slave cylinder is fine held in place with 1 bolt, wouldn't you think Mazda would have held it in with only one bolt to begin with?
There's a subframe directly in line with the hole, only 2-3" of clearanceI looked at NA Miata clutch slaves on the internet and am declaring that you're just a lazy fucker if you "can't" get a tap and helicoil in there.
There's a subframe directly in line with the hole, only 2-3" of clearance
That space probably isn't big enough to fit or spin a tap.Looks to me like you unbolt the PS motor mount, possibly the transmission mount, and jack the fucker up.
Holy shit.And have minimum thread engagement? Why not both?
Not my plan.
There's a subframe directly in line with the hole, only 2-3" of clearance
Lol that was the plan, think we've been talking past each other.Holy shit.
Buy.
A.
Longer.
Bolt.
Use.
Longer.
Bolt.
And.
Bracket.
To.
Form.
Threads.
No minimum thread engagement to worry about because there is no stress at that time.
Let it cure, remove lower bolt and replace with stock.
Or don't.
You know that you can use a wrench to spin a tap, right? Or a 12-pt socket?That space probably isn't big enough to fit or spin a tap.
This is where the cylinder hides: