So, forgoing posting for a bit because of more destruction than construction going on, we finished on complete wall now. Except insulation, wiring, door/windows, siding, trim, drywall... Makes it sound bad, but the hard parts are done now, particularly: framing, plumbing/squaring, sheathing, flashing, rain screed/water barrier-ing.
Pics:
They delivered my cement blocks today:
Because of the shortcuts in the original building where there was no foundation per se. So when rain hit the slab it splashed and was sucked up under the siding which caused all that rot. Code for distance between wall and grade is 6", good practice is 12", I'm going with 8" (1 CMU high, which is still better than 0" as before).
Some sexy door framing with the water barrier. Notes on the water barrier: 30 lb asphalt paper, it is far better than Tyvek or other manufactured products. The reason it usually isnt used in production building is that the rolls are only 36" wide, compared to 8 or 10 feet with tyvek, which means about 2.5 layers per 8 ft of wall height. It's also labor intensive to apply as the stuff weighs about a pound per yard and it curls hard enough to pull staples out of the wall when you are putting it up. It doesnt tear, self repairs by oozing tar to some degree, and it doesnt trap moisture inside the walls (major problem with pastic housewraps). 15 lb asphalt paper is what they use behind stucco applications. 30 lb is just better, usually used for flat roofs and whatnot.
Inside shot.
Bottom 16" of wall are pressure treated lumber to avoid any possible rot. There is also tar paper under the bottom plate, and a layer of coal tar between them to stop capillary action, and ants. The structural fasteners are 16 d (3-1/2") spiral shank hot dipped galvanized nails, regular nails will corrode in pressure treated lumber and if it EVER gets wet, they wont rust, spiral shanks double the holding power (the few nails we've placed wrong we're a complete bitch to pull out, even with a 36" wrecking bar, since then we've taken to just snipping them with bolt cutters).
New style corner post so that you can get insulation all the way into the corner. Helps with the problem of cold corners in older houses.
Water barrier goes ALL the way around the door frame to the inside to prevent rot. Lotta detail work with the exterior saves having to replace stuff, ever.
Temporary light switch made from scraps of the old wiring. I have every intention of killing anyone who tries to steal my tools when they hit it.
Soffit looks like crap because it needs replacing. As with the gutter. Im thinking half round galvanized steel like they use on industrial buildings, then we can braze the joints and powerwash it.
Got paint for the door/window trim/soffit too. Sherwin Williams A-100 latex exterior in a grey green (my Dad had a screaming fit when I was ordering some Chartuese Yellow on the phone, you know, the colour of emergency vehicles
) I wanted oil based stuff but you need a permit to use it. Bleh!
Pics:
They delivered my cement blocks today:
Because of the shortcuts in the original building where there was no foundation per se. So when rain hit the slab it splashed and was sucked up under the siding which caused all that rot. Code for distance between wall and grade is 6", good practice is 12", I'm going with 8" (1 CMU high, which is still better than 0" as before).
Some sexy door framing with the water barrier. Notes on the water barrier: 30 lb asphalt paper, it is far better than Tyvek or other manufactured products. The reason it usually isnt used in production building is that the rolls are only 36" wide, compared to 8 or 10 feet with tyvek, which means about 2.5 layers per 8 ft of wall height. It's also labor intensive to apply as the stuff weighs about a pound per yard and it curls hard enough to pull staples out of the wall when you are putting it up. It doesnt tear, self repairs by oozing tar to some degree, and it doesnt trap moisture inside the walls (major problem with pastic housewraps). 15 lb asphalt paper is what they use behind stucco applications. 30 lb is just better, usually used for flat roofs and whatnot.
Inside shot.
Bottom 16" of wall are pressure treated lumber to avoid any possible rot. There is also tar paper under the bottom plate, and a layer of coal tar between them to stop capillary action, and ants. The structural fasteners are 16 d (3-1/2") spiral shank hot dipped galvanized nails, regular nails will corrode in pressure treated lumber and if it EVER gets wet, they wont rust, spiral shanks double the holding power (the few nails we've placed wrong we're a complete bitch to pull out, even with a 36" wrecking bar, since then we've taken to just snipping them with bolt cutters).
New style corner post so that you can get insulation all the way into the corner. Helps with the problem of cold corners in older houses.
Water barrier goes ALL the way around the door frame to the inside to prevent rot. Lotta detail work with the exterior saves having to replace stuff, ever.
Temporary light switch made from scraps of the old wiring. I have every intention of killing anyone who tries to steal my tools when they hit it.
Soffit looks like crap because it needs replacing. As with the gutter. Im thinking half round galvanized steel like they use on industrial buildings, then we can braze the joints and powerwash it.
Got paint for the door/window trim/soffit too. Sherwin Williams A-100 latex exterior in a grey green (my Dad had a screaming fit when I was ordering some Chartuese Yellow on the phone, you know, the colour of emergency vehicles
) I wanted oil based stuff but you need a permit to use it. Bleh!
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I've done them that way for years