Thread All new 2019 Super Duper Sperm thread!

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Kettle has always been the default hot-water-for-whatever device in my house.

Microwave in my house gets used for (1) reheating leftovers + the odd coffee that sat too long and got cold, and (2) odd jobs like heating cold milk from the fridge to happy-yeast temperatures when I'm making sandwich bread.

Boiling water in the microwave is just weird as shit. Plus you can superheat water:

 
Kettle has always been the default hot-water-for-whatever device in my house.

Microwave in my house gets used for (1) reheating leftovers + the odd coffee that sat too long and got cold, and (2) odd jobs like heating cold milk from the fridge to happy-yeast temperatures when I'm making sandwich bread.

Boiling water in the microwave is just weird as shit. Plus you can superheat water:


You can't really super heat tap water in the microwave. I'm shocked that I'm the one to tell you that.
 
Cause the brits have 240v (or something) as their main power, so they can heat water in a kettle super quick.
Its not weird so much as its ig'nant.
I'm putting 240V outlets in my kitchen for that exact purpose. Split phase 120+120 is getting run anyway so it's only just a matter of poking a 6-20 in the box next to the two 5-20s.

Also allows me to run shit like 240V induction cooktops, flat grilles and all sorts of other commercial kitchen shit.
 
Is split phase 120 a common thing in canada? When i redid my panel I ran a couple MWBC (multiwire branch circuits) in a 2 x 20a 120v config which offers a nice ancillary benefit of being able to run proper 240 should i choose to. But MWBCs are really uncommon here.
 
Is split phase 120 a common thing in canada? When i redid my panel I ran a couple MWBC (multiwire branch circuits) in a 2 x 20a 120v config which offers a nice ancillary benefit of being able to run proper 240 should i choose to. But MWBCs are really uncommon here.

It's pretty much standard up here in existing construction, primarily because it saves copper. You get 2x20A running 12/3 instead of having to do 2 separate runs of 12/2, so 4 conductors vs 6 total.

Generally kitchen outlets are split with top/bottom of the outlet being run on opposite phases, so you can have a toaster and a kettle plugged into the same outlet. Though this is changing, because of the requirement for GFIs on countertop outlets within so many feet of a sink.
 
Kettle has always been the default hot-water-for-whatever device in my house.

Microwave in my house gets used for (1) reheating leftovers + the odd coffee that sat too long and got cold, and (2) odd jobs like heating cold milk from the fridge to happy-yeast temperatures when I'm making sandwich bread.

Boiling water in the microwave is just weird as shit. Plus you can superheat water:
You'd be surprised what you can do with a microwave. They actually do eggs really well if you just want scrambled. Also you can do bacon super crispy and not greasy in them (you need a special tray, also works for brats and stuff)
 
I'm putting 240V outlets in my kitchen for that exact purpose. Split phase 120+120 is getting run anyway so it's only just a matter of poking a 6-20 in the box next to the two 5-20s.

Also allows me to run shit like 240V induction cooktops, flat grilles and all sorts of other commercial kitchen shit.
You can make super ghetto 240 outlets by hooking two 120s on opposite phases then running the live to live and connecting them to a 240 receptacle.

My boss had a cheater extension cord to run a welder with like that. Was scary.
 
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Is a m with a / through it some kind of multiplier like a powerball or something or am I supposed to divide by 1000?

91,000 marklar seems like a lot to me unless it's on par with Italian lira or mexican pesos or something.

Is it enough for a Tshirt? A hat pin or one of those buttons with a safety pin built in the back?
A sticker at least?

View attachment 17210

I'm at least hoping it'll get me something that says UF on it. If it's not enough to get the whole title www.uselessforums.com send me a quote for like price per character or something I could maybe chip in a couple extra bucks to get the rest of the title.

If your sizes end at XL and don't have like 2XL or 3XL forget it, it won't work anyway. Really it needs to be XLT, T for tall, so my wondrous gut doesn't spill out the bottom when I raise my arms or if worn tucked in it stays tucked in. Being a brand ambassador and all I wouldn't want to be somewhere in public displaying this thing and not give a good impression.
Charge your phone
 
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