Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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Eh, I've got a replacement coming from someone who owes me a favor or two.

I'll keep building up the broken screw boss on the old wiper switch with ABS goop in the meantime.
You could 3D print ABS parts and then glue it in with goop? Might be better than repairing with goop?

If printing with ABS, leave it in the garage while printing.
 
You could 3D print ABS parts and then glue it in with goop? Might be better than repairing with goop?

If printing with ABS, leave it in the garage while printing.
I've been meaning to make some cabinets for the printing/hobby/office room upstairs, I should probably get to it.

Still, first priority is getting concrete down for the shed before it freezes.
 
I might have to eat a little more crow and rethink my stance on this VatoZone shit. Had nothing but good experience for like 20 years and I'm not talking about stuff some putz drives to their office once a day either. More like 35k-70k per year cars.
But I'm on my 3rd failure in 2-3 years. That's too much.
Doesn't seem to be much rhyme or reason to it either. One was a water pump, one an alternator, and one a brake booster.
One is a purely mechanical spinny part, one is a combo electrical mechanical spinny part, and one is neither. More a rubber seal/vacuum valve type part.

It's as if they dropped their +/- 3% or 5% spec down to 10% and I got the shit end of the curve every time.

My own fault for thinking the way shit used to be is the way is still is I guess.
 
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Oddly the booster is supposed to be a Bendix reman sold through AutoZone and Cardone but they probably take their rejects that don't pass muster but still hold pressure on the end of the line test.

Meaning they'll probably work for tens of thousands of brake pedal pushes instead of hundreds of thousands like a good one would.
 
Stuff that isn't waranteed out by these guys I have been replacing with better shit. If not OEM reman at least a little better quality aftermarket.
Then again I just replace stuff with what was supposed to be there in the first place, not trying to herd 500 horses through a corral made for 300.
 
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Success.

Man I need one of those every-angle-under-the-sun sets of needle nose from harbor freight, or hell just what amounts to a wide mouth channel lock would make stuff easier. That head is the right angle, just can't grab all 3 at the same time.
Dont feel like much of a mechanic when the hardest part is putting the damn hose back on good.

Works good though.
Out of habit I pushed my foot down as far as you usually do to make it stop and man shit was flying off the seat and I was sitting still like 20-30 yards behind the stop sign.

I think this thing has been failing/losing vacuum/pressure for a while, just slow enough I got accustomed to it. I expect this new POS to fail around summer/fall 2021.
 
I still think something changed with them, cheaper sources or something. Never had these kinda problems with it before.
Used to be you replace a part once and it lasts as long as the car, in my case 300k+.
 
Kinda sorta got the suspension done on the 300ZX today.

The coilovers are in, but I really need to go through and raise it up about an inch. I also put the wrong bushing set on the front lower control arms. I have the right one coming, but it's a bit floppy and darty right now. The rear is as close as I can get it before taking it to the alignment shop. I need to find an alignment shop that knows wtf they're doing, too.

I'm going to raise it up about an inch higher than it is right now, and then get it to the alignment shop that my tuner recommends to get the rear arms dialed in. The adjustable arm in the front is the track rod, which controls the caster and squat when you load it (e.g., when you're taking off).

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That ball joint on the rear of the knuckle is for the rear steering rack that I removed some years ago. I should find some rubber that I can hack up to take up the slack between the toe rod and the knuckle, because it moves now, quite a bit.
 
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