Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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Like this

https://www.mcmaster.com/knockout-punches

find your size/shape
Dunno if theres one exactly for your application, tho
There may be ones from other sources that would be closer to size
@Jehannum I inherited a couple dozen of those from my cousin with the lathe. It would only help with the one on the bottom right as they are all a complete hole, but I could see if I have one that size and mail it to you.

Of course, for the flange portion, 3D printed jig.

Not sure on the keyed portions. Lemme think.
 
ah, then the clear choice is to take it to a machine shop with a d punch. Thats gotta be a standard d punch size.
 
ah, then the clear choice is to take it to a machine shop with a d punch. Thats gotta be a standard d punch size.
But how will they punch it? It's 3mm steel. Most machine shops don't have a press for the job, somebody would have to set it up if they did. And on a single pass punching that would leave hell of a burr. And no, you can't do that on an arbor press. *I worked for a Dayton Tool distributor for 8 years - I made punches like that frequently. Nobody keeps them on hand since even though holes sizes may be fairly standard, material thicknesses are not and you have to have proper punch to die clearance. Which varies by material and thickness, greatly.

Last idea . . . find someone with a CNC plasma cutter. Should be lots of them who'd work cheap - they all thought they'd make a killing making customs signs and lawn art.
 
But how will they punch it? It's 3mm steel. Most machine shops don't have a press for the job, somebody would have to set it up if they did. And on a single pass punching that would leave hell of a burr. And no, you can't do that on an arbor press. *I worked for a Dayton Tool distributor for 8 years - I made punches like that frequently. Nobody keeps them on hand since even though holes sizes may be fairly standard, material thicknesses are not and you have to have proper punch to die clearance. Which varies by material and thickness, greatly.

Last idea . . . find someone with a CNC plasma cutter. Should be lots of them who'd work cheap - they all thought they'd make a killing making customs signs and lawn art.

If it's the "access cover" thing you take off the tank that the lines go through, holds the float for the gauge and all that, 3mm sounds kinda thick to me, though I've never measured one.
 
My Datsun has an external fuel pump too, but the removable bulkhead on the fuel tank is still called the sending unit.

OK, though the term sounds weird to me seeing as there's nothing in that "unit" capable of "sending". The fuel pump is down the line. More like "drawing" from a well and "sending" it to its destination.

Although the signal from the float is still getting sent to the gauge from that unit so I guess it could be a sending unit, but not a fuel sending unit.
 
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OK, though the term sounds weird to me seeing as there's nothing in that "unit" capable of "sending". The fuel pump is down the line. More like "drawing" from a well and "sending" it to its destination.

Although the signal from the float is still getting sent to the gauge from that unit so I guess it could be a sending unit, but not a fuel sending unit.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's what it comes from (sending the tank level).

Curiously enough, the Datsun's is sealed "well" enough that it's mounted to the lower front of the tank.

Guess I'm just glad Ralph Nader aimed lower.
 
My Nissan trucks of that era had the fuel pump mounted outside the tank. Maybe they still called the rest of it the sending unit, really don't know.
My '67 Mustang has a sending unit at the tank and a mechanical fuel pump mounted to the block.

Also, mounted on the bottom of the tank.
 
My '67 Mustang has a sending unit at the tank and a mechanical fuel pump mounted to the block.

Also, mounted on the bottom of the tank.

Maybe I'm just being nitpicky with the labels used, but the meaning of it sounds "off".
 
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