Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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need some input

wanted to replace pads/rotors on the 350z, but the bottom bolt on the rear pass side is FUSED in place.

I tried pb blaster, tapping, then more pb blaster, waited a good 30 min, used impact gun, breaker bar (though I didn't have enough clearance to reef on it,) I hit it with a propane torch for quite a while, did not budge. I wrapped everything up, gave the bolt another dousing in pb blaster then put the old pads back on...

what else can I try tomorrow?

I need to find a 19mm spanner first off.
 
drukqs said:
need some input

wanted to replace pads/rotors on the 350z, but the bottom bolt on the rear pass side is FUSED in place.

I tried pb blaster, tapping, then more pb blaster, waited a good 30 min, used impact gun, breaker bar (though I didn't have enough clearance to reef on it,) I hit it with a propane torch for quite a while, did not budge. I wrapped everything up, gave the bolt another dousing in pb blaster then put the old pads back on...

what else can I try tomorrow?

I need to find a 19mm spanner first off.
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There is one trick I have used with such success that I stopped using everything else.

Go get some casting wax. Not a candle, something that actually says casting wax on the box https://contenti.com/inlay-casting-wax-sticks (note, not sure what makes it work so well, but I've noticed a difference in various types of casting wax and other waxes)

Torch the bolt till a dull red, if possible at the joint, if not just wherever you can. Apply wax. It will boil instantly, it might auto-ignite, but keep applying wax. Once it cools enough to stop boiling, apply a little more and just be patient. Let the bolt cool down till you wont get a second degree burn, then wrench with a good 6-pt socket/wrench/whatever.

The heat draws the wax through the same way a wick does and delivers more wax deeper down than something thinner that boils off easier like PB Blaster or WD.
 
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Mr. Asa said:
There is one trick I have used with such success that I stopped using everything else.

Go get some casting wax. Not a candle, something that actually says casting wax on the box https://contenti.com/inlay-casting-wax-sticks (note, not sure what makes it work so well, but I've noticed a difference in various types of casting wax and other waxes)

Torch the bolt till a dull red, if possible at the joint, if not just wherever you can. Apply wax. It will boil instantly, it might auto-ignite, but keep applying wax. Once it cools enough to stop boiling, apply a little more and just be patient. Let the bolt cool down till you wont get a second degree burn, then wrench with a good 6-pt socket/wrench/whatever.

The heat draws the wax through the same way a wick does and delivers more wax deeper down than something thinner that boils off easier like PB Blaster or WD.
Click to expand...

very interesting, never heard that one before
 
Replacing the one leaky heater hose seems to have done the necessary on the friend's Chrysler. Fuckin thing had the hose clamps from hell, good thing I have every available angle of extended needle nose pliers. The hose that failed had a quick disconnect on one side, then split into two to hit both the front and rear heater cores.
 
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Jehannum said:
Replacing the one leaky heater hose seems to have done the necessary on the friend's Chrysler. Fuckin thing had the hose clamps from hell, good thing I have every available angle of extended needle nose pliers. The hose that failed had a quick disconnect on one side, then split into two to hit both the front and rear heater cores.
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Good man.
 
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nukes said:
Prius. Be a real man.
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I SAID CORVETTE

mAGMVW.gif
 
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