Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles

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Got above the smoke today in the Carson National Forest
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nukes said:
Got new tires Friday morning. Gassed up an hour later.
The 9 gallons lasted until an hour ago, no days off.
Tires make a HUGE difference on a Prius. Tank of gas used to last 2 days.
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gotta keep them rollerskate tires aired up and that'll help with the rolling resistance up to the point where they're worn to racing depth.
 
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So, lifter rattle went away after detergents and an oil change. That's a good thing.

Gauge still being weird. Realized it isnt going to the 0 PSI position, it is going to the key off position.

Gonna have to try and dig up my PDF of the electrical system and see if the gauges are on there
 
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Ok, looks like the gauge gets 12V power, it isn't 5V for any weird reasons. At cold idle I'm seeing about the same level of "pressure" on the gauge as if it had the 20 ohm resistor not jumpered across. Jumping 12V across it pegs it on the high side.

I think I need to find out what the ohm range of this sender is.
 
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Mr. Asa said:
Ok, looks like the gauge gets 12V power, it isn't 5V for any weird reasons. At cold idle I'm seeing about the same level of "pressure" on the gauge as if it had the 20 ohm resistor not jumpered across. Jumping 12V across it pegs it on the high side.

I think I need to find out what the ohm range of this sender is.
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I built a jig for that out of some plumbing fittings for mine, and hooked it to my air compressor.
 
I finally pulled the trigger on a set of fancy fuel rails that come with AN fittings on either end and a large diaphragm fuel pressure regulator for the Z32.

I have to pull the plenum again on account of some oil leakage from the driver side exhaust valve cover, and new rails will allow me to bypass half the plumbing on the topside of the plenum in the future.

Going with a parallel fuel flow instead of serial allows me to use a big FPR instead of an FPR on the back and a damper at the front. I will also clean up the fuel plumbing on the driver side (move the fuel filter and fuel composition sensor under the car) while eliminating a completely unserviceable hose (without pulling the plenum, it's impossible to change).
 
Jehannum said:
Finding the specs are only half the battle, then you have to verify the current sender meets spec.
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The gauge itself isn't completely accurate. I'd have to measure the pressures on a table-top setup, then send power through the gauge at those voltages and mark it with a permanent marker in order to be accurate.

Even then Ford did screwy shit with the gauges to prevent measurements that happened too quickly.
 
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