I bought a bass from one of their stores, i'm sure it must be a decent job..Don't think so. Small shop and the staff have all been there forever
Long and McQuade, canada's "medium box" guitar store here, is perpetually hiring. I know several musicians who have worked there, it's a 'pay the bills' job plus discounts on instruments/supplies.
Ontopic A Thread About Butt Mustard, For Those Who Drive Automobiles
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Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Fastenal didn't even know what it was. After explaining, didn't even have it. After realizing the counter-monkey thought I said "Engineer's Glue" we started over.
5 day lead time.
Ugh
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
You might have tried "Prussian blue", as that's a known name that might have helped.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
@gee, @Mr. Asa, you guys know any way to repair plastic standoffs?
I have a number of panels in the Z that have plastic standoffs that have broken off, either as a result of age or abuse or both. I need to repair at least two of them, as the panels the standoffs attach to are basically unobtainable now.
I don't want to "3D print" anything for this, is there a reasonable way to rebuild the standoffs with some kind of shapeable plastic that I can apply from a tube or something?
I have a number of panels in the Z that have plastic standoffs that have broken off, either as a result of age or abuse or both. I need to repair at least two of them, as the panels the standoffs attach to are basically unobtainable now.
I don't want to "3D print" anything for this, is there a reasonable way to rebuild the standoffs with some kind of shapeable plastic that I can apply from a tube or something?
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Most plastic in cars is ABS. If so, make some ABS goop with some old ABS (Lego is ABS) and acetone. Apply with whatever popsicle stick you have nearby, give it a day or two to fully cure.
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
I'll take a spare broken piece and see if I can melt it in acetone.
Thanks for the help!
Mr. Argumentor
I fab shitboxes and shitbox accessories.
Even if you can't, the goop itself does a fairly good job of flowing into cracks and crevices to allow it to create a mechanical bond.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
In that case, spend the money and get an actual 3D printer. It can print dozens of dicks overnight while you sleep, or during the day while you're at work. Much better dick to effort ratio.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Tracked down the last of the electrical issues. The blower was stuck on high. Turns out the blower resistor was grounding itself out through the expansion valve. I moved the expansion valve, and now I have fan speeds again.
Just waiting on my tuner to tell me which ECU he'd prefer to run in the Z, then I'll buy it and go.
I'm just about done with the dash dildo™, after measuring the old clock and ears and rear clearance.
Just waiting on my tuner to tell me which ECU he'd prefer to run in the Z, then I'll buy it and go.
I'm just about done with the dash dildo™, after measuring the old clock and ears and rear clearance.
Looks good. I really want to put a round chamfer on the outer edge of the top surface there - I guess if you recess that edge into the dash it won't be a problem, but if the hard edge sticks out, it might look wrong.
Also, ask whoever prints it to rotate it on the build platform by whatever angle you set for the top, so that the top prints completely horizontal, this way you'll get a flat surface without any "shingling", but the bottom will have to be supported at an angle (which is fine). Or you could print it face down, if they're printing on glass this will give you a shiny front.
Also, get it printed out of ABS, PETG or some other high temperature material, don't use PLA.
Also, ask whoever prints it to rotate it on the build platform by whatever angle you set for the top, so that the top prints completely horizontal, this way you'll get a flat surface without any "shingling", but the bottom will have to be supported at an angle (which is fine). Or you could print it face down, if they're printing on glass this will give you a shiny front.
Also, get it printed out of ABS, PETG or some other high temperature material, don't use PLA.
Jehannum
Puts the "pro" in procrastination
Yep. Our Ultimaker 3 at work does that.
You can also do it with pretty much any 3D printer using an Octoprint server - I've got "OctoPi" on a RPi running my printer over the network, and with a webcam watching the print area of my printer.
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